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  #1  
Old 04-16-2014, 09:42 PM
Crittergitter Crittergitter is offline
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Default Creeper install question?

I'm installing a creeper on my 1200. I need to remove and cut drive shaft. Can anyone help with that. I have the tunnel cover off and am having a hard time removing the drive shaft. My hope is that I can remove the drive shaft without splitting the tractor.

There is a spring over the shaft held with a drift pin and washer putting tension back towards the transmission. Does this spring need to be removed?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2014, 11:38 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You have to either remove the motor or pull the trans. You can't get it out any other way..... so YES, you have to split the tractor.

The drive shaft should have a score mark on it and a second hole for the creeper. Cut it on the line. No, don't drive that pin out, that spring is the clutch spring. If you drive it out, you'll be sorry you did.
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Old 04-17-2014, 03:32 AM
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cubby102 cubby102 is offline
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You can get it out without removing the engine. I just did this on my 1000. You do need to remove the pivoting mount for the clutch arm. You need to push it forward toward the engine. Also removing both of the rear flex disk mounts help with room also. Once its free from the rear input shaft you can finagle it out through the tunnel. Area .
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:32 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Be sure to support the driveshaft couplers when driving the pins out.
Remove the pins from both rear couplers and slide them forward on the shaft.
The assly will pick right out with some wiggling.

If it were my Cub, I would pull the engine at this time to freshen up the engine compt and inspect/replace as needed ISO mounts and anything else in there , like steering gear, that may need attn', but, that's just me.
. You will have to support the front end by the frame so the axle can pivot and remove the front wheels to gain access to the front 2 engine mount bolts.

Good luck!
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:29 AM
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red56turbo red56turbo is offline
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I usually loosen the engine and slide it forward. You can also loosen up the rear coupler and front and should be able to just work things out like Dave said. A lot easier than pulling the rearend.
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  #6  
Old 04-17-2014, 09:03 PM
Crittergitter Crittergitter is offline
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Default Cut mark on drive shaft

So I have pulled the drive shaft, your right no need to split the tranny off. The drive shaft has been painted and i don't see a mark for the cut length. Does anyone know the measurement? Also there is only one hole for a drift pin, shouldn't there be two holes for the "rag connection", one on each side of the rags?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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