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#1
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I've had this tractor for the better part of it's life, and now what seems it's worse. It came with a 7hp recoil, which I've fixed plenty of times. Now I have an 8hp elec start, and it seems the tractor isn't happy with this engine either. I just got it running again yesterday, and was able to put it to the test pushing snow. Which there wasn't any to really push, but it ran fine. Even was able to push a few mounds back a little further. This morning however, we were greeted with about a half a foot of light fluffy stuff. She started hard as usual, and greeted the newly adorned drive with a big puff on the throttle and I flew down the drive like there was no tomorrow. When I got to the end, she started bucking and coughing like she just smoked a stale cigar. I had carb issues in the past, and have it dialed in and timed as best as I can. Now it seems the gov. is out of whack. I didn't readjust that when I set the carb and timing. Is there something I'm missing? It idles perfectly. Soon as I touch the throttle it just bogs. I've played with the linkage, both throttle and gov., and it just doesn't seem to be in sync. I'm going to reset the gov., and was wondering if anyone out there knows some tricks they've used. I have the info for this procedure, but was wondering if I have to reset the points as well when doing this? Thank you for any input. Oh, shoveling [U]is not[U] an option. Not when you have a tractor.
Rick |
#2
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#3
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If you done carb cleaning recently, I'd start at the fuel shutoff/bowl. Pull the fuel line off at the carb, and put it in a cup. Turn the valve on, should have good stream, let it flow for half a min. If it slows down, the tank vent is clogged. If all is good, pull the carb an blow it out. Sounds like the end if your drive is the exact distance required to drain your carb bowl. ![]() Bill |
#4
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Can the screen/filter inside the gas tank corode? The fuel bowl is clean. What about air leaks in the fuel system or even on the carb itself. Is this a possibility? I've had the carb off 2wice already and cleaned/blown it out. When it's idling, if I barely touch the throttle shaft to give it more gas, it cuts out. But if I use the choke and give it gas, it will at least advance in rpm's, but not run correctly. That's why I think the gov. isn't adjusted. This is giving me a huge headache. People are calling me for work and I can't go. I should just throw in the towel on this engine, yes?
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#5
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If you can pull the choke and make it better, it's running lean. There is no screen in the tank, just in the sediment bowl. Yes, that one can go bad. You can't have an "air leak" in gravity fed system. You CAN have a vacuum leak at the carb mounting if you didn't replace the gasket when you pulled the carb. Set the governor by the book, then set timing (BY THE BOOK, DON'T "GUESS"!!) After that, tune the carb. That is the order you do it in, if you don't do it in that order, it won't run right. You can't tune a carb, then adjust time and expect it to run right. If you adjust timing, adjust the carb. I seriously doubt anything is wrong with that engine. No, don't abandon ship, I'm sure this problem can be straightened out. Good luck! ![]() |
#6
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Thank you kindly for the info. I'm starting the readjustments right now. I'll let you know how it works.
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#7
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Since we have no history on the engine that you just installed, then we have no idea what is/could be wrong with it.
That said... If you used a feeler gauge to set your timing, go back and time your engine again using the static method found in the tech. section of this forum, however this is not your problem (and since you said that it ran fine yesterday, I seriously doubt that the governor is the problem either, but if you think you have too, then by all means adjust the governor). Once you set the timing it is set and you can't change the timing by adjusting something else. Governors are the same... Once they are set, they are set. It is possible that there is an electrical problem, faulty coil, condenser, plug, plug wire or a bad wire or connection somewhere between the battery and the points. If what you have told us is accurate (it ran fine yesterday, but does not today), and there are no electrical problems, then you absolutely have a fuel or fuel/air delivery problem. (Just because it is easy) remove the high speed needle from the carburetor, make sure the tiny holes in the needle are clean and free from obstruction and also make sure the tube between the tiny holes and the larger ones near the top of the needle is clear. If this engine has been setting and the carburetor has had gas in it for a long time, then you need to go to your local auto parts store and get a 1 gallon can of carburetor cleaner with the "basket" inside, remove and disassemble your carburetor then soak it and all of its parts overnight. Then blow out ALL of the passages in it, reassemble it (using a new "kit") and try again. Starting the engine and spraying some kind of aerosol product down the throat will not clean the carburetor.
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#8
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Ok, just in from the war zone. The gov. seemed to be adjusted correctly. I have it timed and the carb is as close as I can get it to run at 3550rpm. I can't get it to go any higher than that. It will run at that level but with what seems like a slight cough. Still not sure if it's an electric cough or fuel cough. Can I test the coil at this rpm? Just to see if it's missing. Most of the engines I've worked on were in pretty good operation. My timing light malfunctioned while I was at full throttle. Don't know why. I know the timing light would provide me with the results of electrical coughing, I thought there might be another way. When I put it in gear it seems to want to die. I tried opening the high speed needle, but before I could even attempt to drive it, she wanted to quit. I need to put a new something on here. I won't let my baby down.
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#9
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Thanks Sam. I would never spray anything down the carbs throat. Unless it was moonshine.
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