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  #1  
Old 08-14-2013, 11:25 AM
Juicybusa Juicybusa is offline
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Location: KY
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Default 127 Trunion Shaft Removal

Replacing pump shaft and trunion shaft seals this afternoon. I've studied the manual pretty thoroughly and believe I have a good understanding of everything I'll need to do with one exception. The manual is a bit cryptic on driving the spring pins that secure the swash plate to the trunion shaft. There are no photos for clarity. Are the holes in the swash plate blind?>and if so how in the heck would you ever get the pins out of the shaft and back into the swash plate to secure the assembly? The manual seemingly alludes that some swash plates are drilled through and some are blind. Any experiences and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:37 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juicybusa View Post
Replacing pump shaft and trunion shaft seals this afternoon. I've studied the manual pretty thoroughly and believe I have a good understanding of everything I'll need to do with one exception. The manual is a bit cryptic on driving the spring pins that secure the swash plate to the trunion shaft. There are no photos for clarity. Are the holes in the swash plate blind?>and if so how in the heck would you ever get the pins out of the shaft and back into the swash plate to secure the assembly? The manual seemingly alludes that some swash plates are drilled through and some are blind. Any experiences and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Are the trunion shaft seals leaking?
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  #3  
Old 08-14-2013, 11:48 AM
Juicybusa Juicybusa is offline
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Yes the left side is making a mess
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:10 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Just to clarify, left as you are sitting on the seat?
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:28 PM
Juicybusa Juicybusa is offline
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Yes, same side as the controls.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:26 PM
Juicybusa Juicybusa is offline
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I feel really dumb. After thinking about this for a while I answered my own question. The pin is driven to centerpoint in the shaft. Remove the shaft then remove the pins from the shaft for reinstallation from the front of the swash plate into the reinstalled shaft. sheesh I feel like a dummy.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:34 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Alright. Yeah, disassembly is required for that seal. Too bad. Make sure to clean the housing off really well and get you a very clean place to work on it. DO NOT use a cloth rag on the internal parts. Not even to set the pieces on. Get you a roll of blue shop "paper" towels. Yes, that pin can be driven all the way through. Make sure when you split the two housings that the plungers stay in their bores. Some people will say that this isn't important. I disagree. I have had many piston style pumps apart, and that is like rule #2. (Rule #1 is there is no such thing as being too clean when working on these.) As added advice, there is no reason to remove the opposite side pin. That seal can be changed without taking it out. As long as you keep everything clean, don't wash the internal parts. Just clean the case gasket face and put the internals back in. If cleaning is necessary, lube with hy-tran on reassembly. If you want read through this write up in the technical section. Hydro's: How they work.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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