hydraulic oil change 1250 questions

[martyrant]

So I am at the point where I need to change the hydraulic oil in the 1250 I got a while back and currently have the filters (got a couple, figure I might be changing it again soon if it's really bad) and the hydraulic oil. I looked at the manuals for the Quietlines and the 1000/1200, and I noticed that on the quietlines there is no drain cap (where on the 1000/1200 there is) for the hydraulic oil. Do I drain the oil out of the filter when I take it off on the 1250? Or do I jack up the front end like I've read around here and possibly pour it out the filler cap?

Sorry if this is explained somewhere in the manual, but I couldn't find anything and figure this is probably a simple question for someone who has done it.

Also, on a side note, does anyone know if implements (hydraulic plow) from a 129 would fit the 1250? I think they are both WF, but just figured I'd ask.

Thanks again,

Briton

[_DX3_]

You remove the rear trans cover to drain the fluid. The hydros hold 2 gallons of fluid. You can use some break cleaner and lint free rags to clean out the housing once it is drained. You should be good to go for a few more years with the filter and fluid changed.

Implements for the WF's will fit your QL.

[martyrant]

Originally Posted by _DX3_

You remove the rear trans cover to drain the fluid. The hydros hold 2 gallons of fluid. You can use some break cleaner and lint free rags to clean out the housing once it is drained. You should be good to go for a few more years with the filter and fluid changed.

Implements for the WF's will fit your QL.

Thank you for answering both my questions so quickly DX3!

[TheSaturnV]

So you'll want to have a replacement gasket on hand for the rear cover. When you remove the rear cover, be prepared for just shy of 2 gallons as mentioned above. Large pans don't typically fit too well between the rear tires, so 2 smaller pans are sometimes the way to go.

Loosen all the cover bolts, but don't remove the top 2 or 3 until the very last. Loosen them up about halfway, then crack open the cover from the bottom. This will give you some control over the fluid that will come splashing out.

As an aside, if you suspect your axle seals are leaking at all, now is the time to replace them while you have the rear cover off.

[martyrant]

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

So you'll want to have a replacement gasket on hand for the rear cover. When you remove the rear cover, be prepared for just shy of 2 gallons as mentioned above. Large pans don't typically fit too well between the rear tires, so 2 smaller pans are sometimes the way to go.

Loosen all the cover bolts, but don't remove the top 2 or 3 until the very last. Loosen them up about halfway, then crack open the cover from the bottom. This will give you some control over the fluid that will come splashing out.

As an aside, if you suspect your axle seals are leaking at all, now is the time to replace them while you have the rear cover off.

I am not a mechanic (work as an network engineer, so pretty far from the mechanic trade other than I can follow diagrams and instructions) so I wouldn't know what to look for / know how to tell if my axle seals are leaking--is this something I can check visibly when I do the oil change?

Also, whereabouts can I get a replacement gasket for the rear cover (and the rear axle seals, if I need them). Is this something I can get a generic part for, or should I go to my cub dealer for them?

Thanks again for extrapolating further on the process!

[badboy1950]

the best place to buy your parts are with the vendors at the top of each page as i have had good luck with them.
Dan