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#1
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You have 2 QL gear drive tractors setting in front of you.
One with internal brakes, the other with discs. Which one do you choose? ![]() Each must have their good and bad points. I am leaning towards the discs because the disc brakes will stop on a grade better if one rear wheel looses traction. (I have hills) The discs do not require transmission removal to service the brakes. Am I missing something?? Could discs be added to the internal brake tractor for better braking? (Use both systems) At my age I like stopping as much as going!! Please help me choose!! |
#2
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the only thing about disc, or internal for that fact, if the tractor doesn't weigh enough to stop, it will just skid. A legitimate 30 yard skid down a 35 degree slope while trying to disengage the deck isn't that fun. Then I added weights!
![]() -------------- but discs do give me that "warm, fuzzy feeling" for what it's worth....
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Gary '49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods. 5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah... |
#3
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The answer is simple, they are both QL's, SCRAP THEM!
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#4
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With the external if they build up a little rust or get to wet it takes a sec for them to grab a hold the first time you go to use them. BTDT
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#5
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I concur with Vince,wet brakes do stop both wheels not just one.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#6
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This is a severe circumstance, one that occurs if you have a loader or if a trailer load of firewood is pushing you down a grade. Won't the differential will allow the low traction tire to counter-rotate, eliminating the braking effort of the internal brake? Isn't the internal brake similar to depending on engine braking? ![]() The reason I am asking is that I have never used an internal brake Cub Cadet, but the 448 Case with a band brake I had for a short while was a braking nightmare!! |
#7
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I've yet to use the breaks on any cub I have owned and driven.
But than I always plan out my plan of action ahead of time and have never found myself in need of breaks on any garden tractor or lawn mower. |
#8
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I would have to go with internal. My 128 and 1812 have discs and they don't stop! I have tighted up the brake on the 128 it stop after 5ft but stops when the tractor goes backward idk y tho. My 73 has prefect brakes it stops as soon as the petal is pressed.
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1971 128,3pt,ags,rebuilt motor,headlights 1988 1812,dual ports 1966 122,creeper,3pt,ags,sa,headlights,restored 1st place at RPRU 2013 1966 123,3pt,brinly spring assist 1973 108 1968 125 Attachments:QA36A,wfblade,2 nf blades,brinly disc,a cultivator,plow,homemade wrecker boom with 2000lbs winch,ih weights,50lbs weights,2IH windbreakers |
#9
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In that case, both your 128 and 1812 need new brake pads and an adjustment. My tractors with external brakes do not have this issue with properly-adjusted, good-condition brakes.
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#10
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I have played with many cubs with both break set ups. I would hands down choose internal breaks. They always stop my tractors on a dime and require little to no maintenance. external on the other hand dont work as well and cost much more to replace the pads. This is just my opinion to each there own.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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