1450 build from a newbie

[Gijazbo]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

Good to see someone else w/an old Ford. I'm 79f3504x4 over there.

I figured i would just go with all 70s collection.

[J-Mech]

Make sure the governor is set correctly, timing is correct and then tune the carb. Either a timing or fuel issue. Could even be an ignition problem (bad spark plug). Gonna have to do some more diagnosing. Personally I'm leaning toward fuel issue.

[Gijazbo]

Well i will try it all again, most likely what has happend is i have reached my limit on small engine knowledge.

[budscub]

It is hard to tell from the video, but I have seen what seems to be your same issue from a bad condenser on the coil. Tractor would seem to run okay but with any load or when trying to accelerate it would stammer and stutter. I got a replacement condenser from O'reilly auto and the problem is gone. Although they are primarily an Automotive store they do have and can get parts for a Kohler.
This can be difficult to find, as there is really no good way to test it, considering the condenser is about 7 bucks, Just much less painless to just replace it.

[Gijazbo]

Well i think im going to limit myself to throwing about 100 more bucks at it(i know it seem sill after whats been invested). i have fiddled with the air fuel mixtures and where it is at now is about as good as it get( rebuilt the carb on engine rebuilt to include new throttle shaft and bushing). I re-checked the timing and ensured my valve gap is correct. the coil and condenser are the original ones that came from the factory. The NAPA by me carries a lot of small engine stuff. So from here i think i will change out the coil and condenser, then reset the governor, then change out the points and plug, then throw an M68 hand grenade at it and run away. Either way i will end the day happy.

Worse case after next week i will drop it off at the 80 year old small engine guy a few towns down the road. I can only hope he has some sage wisdom that can help.

[mobermiller]

Originally Posted by Gijazbo

So, although it is pretty and nice now im still running into issues going full throttle and applying any load.

When i thro the speed lever all the way up to fast it bogs out. It will take 10-15 seconds to correct itself, or i can fiddle with the choke and it will return to normal RPM. I have no issue when i engage the mower deck, it only happens when i try to go fast or up a hill.

From what you quoted above I too feel it's a fuel issue. On a properly running engine, when you go full throttle, the carb opens wide open for a while till the RPM's of the engine satisfies the governor and the governor starts to close the butterfly valve on the carb till the set RPM is achieved. Yours when it opens wide open it's leaning out, starving for fuel. You pull out the choke and the fuel to air mixture then richens up enough to satisfy the needs of the engine.

What's wrong?

1. Did you check the strainer screen on the fuel shut off valve at the gas tank? I would blow some compressed air through the fuel line to make sure the screen in the tank is clear. If this solves the problem, then your done. Be careful when you do this, don't overpressure your fuel tank!

2. Did you check your float level in the carb to make sure it's set properly? If it's set to low, this can cause the fuel mixture to lean up because it doesn't have enough fuel in the bowl.

3. Did you soak the carb in a parts cleaning solvent when you put the kit in it? If you didn't there could be dirt, or fuel varnish clogging the high speed fuel passage within the carb. I use Gunk's Carburetor Parts Cleaner. It comes in a gallon can and has a basket to put the parts and carb body in for the soak. Fully disassemble the carb and put all the parts and carb body into the basket. After a 24 hour soak, blow all passages with compressed air to clear them out.

If these suggestions don't work then I guess it is time to visit the 80 year old engine guru down the road. LOL! Good luck!

[1977IHCC1650]

Agree on all^^^last post suggestions. The metal screen on my shut off valve on my 1650 was basically letting fuel drip through. It was so bad I ended up just poking a hole through the bottom of the screen and installed an inline filter. At least that way I could see if it was flowing fuel. I cleaned out my tank really well and had to get a new fuel cap for proper venting also. Mine was doing the same thing you are describing.
Other than that a simple thing as a piece of carbon on the electrode, minor carb uretor adjustments, especially if the weather temps are changing in your area...Needing more fuel as its getting colder. You have a great looking 1450 and I hope to have my 1650 looking as nice as yours when I am through.
I have been working mine as I restore it,,,yeah that is a fun one to do...lol! Finally broke down and redid my trunion and installed all new linkage tie rod ends and any moveable piece in the hydro plates,,,whatever each one is called as well as the friction disk in the handle...Finally working as it should...Keep after it....I can hardly wait to see how hard mine is to start in the sub zero weather I get here in upstate PA. Changing over to 10w30 here in a couple of weeks for sure..Good luck!

[Gijazbo]

Well i replaced the coil and condenser, i dont want to say it did anything but i had a little less issue uphill. As for the fuel, the tank and lines are new/clean. The carb was rebuilt and i have fiddled with the float. Next step is to check timing, valves and float again and see where im at. Thanks for all those who have tossed out help.

[IHinIN]

When you rebuilt the carb, did you completely disassemble it. My friend's 1450 had a similar issue when you ran the throttle up. It ended up being a dirty main jet. I pulled the jet and cleaned out the holes in it and now it runs great.

[twoton]

Gijazbo, Just read through your thread again to see all the work that you’ve done. I’m sure you’re a bit frustrated after all that. My 1450 had the same problem when I first got it but I managed to cure it. As I am a bad scientist and change multiple things at once I cannot be sure what the remedy really was but, a few thoughts;

Along the lines of the condenser. For the condenser to work properly it must have a good path to ground. With all that nice new paint, that may be lacking. I like to add an additional battery (B-) cable to the starter to engine block mounting bolt. Helps with starting and in a case with points/condenser with proper condenser operation.

Fuel. The main needle is hollow. I pull a piece of wire from a wire brush and use that to clean out needles in carbs. The wire is hardened and fine enough to clean out the smallest holes. Just curious, does your main needle have one or two holes on the lower end? Mine had one. There is some talk on another site by someone who shall not be named that the single hole needles were an issue that CC/International addressed at some point by upgrading to a two hole needle. You can purchase a new two hole needle. I drilled mine out to 1 mm. I cannot say for sure that that was my issue but.. I no longer have that problem.

Good luck.