Dave's 1650 Project

[Methos]

Originally Posted by ndanger

Hi. I'm also Dave, and I am going to look at a '76 1650 tomorrow. I just joined this forum. The seller wants $700 for it but seems willing to negotiate. From the photos I have seen and what I have heard heard from the seller, it seems to be in pretty good shape. He told me that it is not a hydro, but I have not been able to find any evidence of 1650s which were not hydro. It does not appear to have a hydraulic control lever on the RH side of the cowling, so I am kind of curious to see just what this machine is. I would like to set it up for towing, snow-blowing and eventually put a bucket on the front. I used to work on these when I was in high school (a LONG time ago), even rebuilt a couple, and so I am pretty confident I can do whatever wrenching will be required. I have always really liked these machines and am somewhat excited about finally getting my hands on one.

Cheers
Dave

Dave

Sounds like Dave has already given you some good info! We can help you a bit more with the pricing with pic, location and condition determine price. When you go see it get some pics and start a new thread and we'll help you the best we can.

[CC1650Dave]

Please help double-check me here!

Step 11: Install piston to connecting rod

This is one of those places in the service manual where it tells you about identifying marks, but doesn't give you any clue what these identifying marks look like. From said manual:

Orient piston and connecting rod so that the notch (Style "C" piston) or Fly symbol (style "D" piston) on piston and the match mark on connecting rod are facing the same direction.

I have a Style C piston, so the notch is obvious. But now I'm looking for the "match mark" on the connecting rod... Let's see:





You tell me which side has a match mark (?)

Fortunately, I was able to figure it out using the info from Step 12, which I knew was very important on these Kohler rebuilds. The oil hole must be toward the camshaft. Here's the oil hole we're talking about:



So when you examine the rod and its end cap closely, you'll see that there is only one way they go together correctly. I had to really look closely, and switch the end cap back and forth to verify several times, but I was able to see it. You need to assure that the outer edges of the castings match up.



So by getting this right, and by putting my oil hole toward the camshaft, I figure that the rod was in the right direction by default.

Sanity check!

I'm assuming, of course, that by saying:

make sure the match marks are aligned and the oil hole is towards [sic] the camshaft

they mean that the oil hole is toward the camshaft gear. I mean, the camshaft runs all the way across. I know I'm nitpicking here, <edit 10/9/11> I was confused here, disregard...</edit> but dang it, this is important and I hate when things are ambiguous. Especially when I can't see which side has "identifying marks" on the connecting rod.

So I put the hole on the side facing the camshaft gear.

Installing it to the piston was simple. Just lube up the wrist pin with oil, put it through, and snap in the two clips to hold it in place.

[WV boy]

Amazing....im lost for words. you do fantastic work and your documentation is second to none. ill be glued to the rest of this story, i cant wait to see the finished product.

jon

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

they mean that the oil hole is toward the camshaft gear. I mean, the camshaft runs all the way across. I know I'm nitpicking here, but dang it, this is important and I hate when things are ambiguous. Especially when I can't see which side has "identifying marks" on the connecting rod.

How is that ambiguous? The crank is parallel to the camshaft, so the oil hole is either pointed at the camshaft or it is pointed at the other side of the case if it's in backwards

Also, here are the match marks:
rod_1.jpg

rod_2.jpg

[Sugarmaker]

Dave,
Nice pictures as usual!
I just called the machine shop and they will finish the cylinder honing and the valve seats for pick up Sat morning! Nice! Hope to work on this 147R engine next week!
Thanks,
Chris

[CC1650Dave]

You're right Matt - I was confused about what I was confused about. lol

I'll try to clarify my confusion tomorrow.

[CC1650Dave]

Originally Posted by WV boy

Amazing....im lost for words. you do fantastic work and your documentation is second to none. ill be glued to the rest of this story, i cant wait to see the finished product.

jon

Thanks Jon!

You know what's funny...sometimes your motivation for a project stalls for whatever reason. I'm at one of those moments right now, where I'm looking at roadblocks due to tools I don't have, and my total lack of enthusiasm to sand, sand, sand and get ready for painting when the weather window here in MI is closing down on me.

But posts such as yours serve as an external motivation for me, even when my internal motivation is lagging. I know I like to see a story completed myself. So thanks for the positive feedback, I really appreciate it.

[_DX3_]

Don't feel bad, the thread for my 128 rebuild is going to be over a year long. It happens.

[SharkyOhio]

DaveCC,
You are the man! The photos and information you're posting are invaluable to anyone and everyone on this site. I've learned more about rebuilding a K series engine from your posts than anywhere else.

I am hoping to rebuild one of my K321's this winter, and I'll be re-reading many of your posts as I get my parts together.

Thanks again!
SharkyOhio

[Sugarmaker]

Dave,
We got your back here.
I will use some of your shots, ideas and pictures to help me rebuild the 147 engine.
Keep up the good work.
Regards,
Chris