Dave's 1650 Project - Page 18

westofb · #**171** 07-24-2011, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

Concur.

I used my 5hp 20 gallon and never had to wait for air. The size of fenders, frame and hood are so much smaller than doing the whole side of a car for example. Plus, as mentioned you use low pressure settings with HVLP guns.

Sandblasting, now there's a need for a big shop compressor.

If you have or get a dual action sander to use, they are pretty "air" hungry also. I think painting one of these tractors you could get by with a small pancake style compressor, like they sell that comes in kits with the finish air nailers. HVLP guns are great, easy to use, adjust, and clean, they are easy on air consumption and should not tax the smaller compressors what so ever.

I recommend a couple tips for you, one is get some type of water trap to use when painting, the ones that screw on to the air line at the gun that are disposable work great. Also, you mentioned bugs getting in the paint, if they do, leave them till its dry, trying to get them out when the paint is wet will make even a bigger mess than the bug did to start with.

CC1650Dave · #**172** 07-24-2011, 12:23 AM

Thanks guys, that eases my mind. Everyone who writes about painting seems to think that everyone else needs a giant professional setup. I just want to do a tractor, and I doubt I'll be painting anything else for a long time.

litlmikeyl · #**173** 07-24-2011, 12:49 PM

As far as the painting goes, it usually seems like you're racing the clock because of the flash time of BC/CC paint & the coverage area you are painting. You'll be able to see where you stopped shooting in a large panel when you're done, especially in a somewhat transparent paint. For what we do, a little compressor will do since you will be jumping from part to part to shoot. Having the parts strung up in a line to shoot certainly helps, but it will also give your compressor time to recover. We aren't shooting any wild anyways...

CC1650Dave · #**174** 07-24-2011, 01:13 PM

My engine's still at the machine shop, but I was reading about aligning the camshaft and crankshaft. This image from the service manual won't be too helpful. I've read about a lot of problems that stem from not getting this right, so if anyone has better images, tips, etc. it would be much appreciated.

I think a tip I read from Matt G. in another post will be key:

Quote:

Rotate the engine to TDC with the head off and rock it back and forth. The valves will either not move at all or will rock slightly as you wiggle the crankshaft. If they wiggle and one valve is open more than the other, then you are probably off a tooth on the cam.

Matt G. · #**175** 07-24-2011, 01:22 PM

There's a bump on the crank aligned with one of the teeth, and a divot on the cam aligned with one of the spaces between the teeth. Make sure that crank gear tooth is in that space between teeth on the cam gear marked with the divot and you'll be fine.

CC1650Dave · #**176** 07-24-2011, 02:40 PM

OK, thanks Matt. I'll re-read when I get it back from the shop.

CC1650Dave · #**177** 07-24-2011, 03:13 PM

I have no idea how I'm going to get this trunnion assembly and damper spring plate off this shaft.
.

They don't move independently of one another, so I know they need to be removed, cleaned, and lubed.

It all appears to be stuck as bad as this prior assembly I had difficulty with:

.

But with that assembly, I had the luxury of putting the whole thing in a vise and tapping the bracket back and forth around the shaft while putting upward pressure on it.

With this one, I can't really beat on it at all because I don't want to damage anything internal that's holding that shaft in place. I'm concerned that I may have already hurt something internal, not knowing what's going on in there.

I've soaked it overnight with penetrating oil, wirewheeled the little bit of exposed shaft, heated it, put a pry bar between the two brackets...this thing isn't going to budge.

help, please! Am I going to have to open up the hydro and get that whole shaft out of there?

CC1650Dave · #**178** 07-24-2011, 03:16 PM

I assume that outer plate must rotate freely on the shaft, while the trunnion assembly would be somehow mounted to the shaft to actually rotate the shaft (key or something?) is this correct?

Matt G. · #**179** 07-24-2011, 03:42 PM

The trunion is spirol-pinned to the trunion shaft inside the unit, and the damper spring plate pivots freely on the trunion shaft.

You probably won't be able to heat it enough to do any good without destroying either the seal or the heat treatment on the shaft. What I would do is try to rig up a harmonic balancer puller or some similar puller on there. That should pop it off- just be careful not to mushroom the end of the shaft. While you work on that, continue soaking it in PB blaster.

CC1650Dave · #**180** 07-24-2011, 04:36 PM

Good news - I got it. Right after I wrote that last post, I studied the drawings and thought about it some more, and the only thing I could conclude is that I'd need more heat.

I was being very gentle with the heat earlier. Remember, I only have a plumbers torch, so it's not like I can get this thing red hot or anything. So I gave it more heat, then applied upward pressure with the pry bar, and rotated the shaft all the way one way and the other while I tapped it just enough to compress the small spring (so I could get some rotation on that shaft.)

It popped free, and now I have it all cleaned up, greased, and reassembled with new springs. I've seen where other guys have had to reshape the brackets from wear, but mine looked nice and square on all the corners.

(edit 7/30/11 - you'll see later that I was looking at the outer plate when I assessed things as "square." I did some more reading later and realized that the trunnion bracket itself was where the wear occurs. At first, I thought the notches in it were to hold the spring seats in place. It turns out that these were the wear points.)

On to the next thing...