Super steer axle upgrade, done

cub149 · #1 11-09-2010, 08:08 PM

I did the super steer upgrade to my 149 this weekend with an axle from an 1860. It works OK but I will need to put the three turn steering column in for sure. Steering with the 149 stock column, it gets harder to turn once it gets to a certain point. I guess this is why they went to the three turn column? By the way, it isn't my column as I rebuilt it with the steering upgrade at the beginning of the summer and it works like power steering (well as close as you can get). I have the three turn shaft from the 1860 but it is a tilt column so I will have to weld it to another shaft to get the length I need. I haven't sat down and measured everything yet but it appears this three turn shaft will mount up into the old steering box? Anyone know for sure?
Also, the new axle lowered the front about 1/2" or so. I will have to reset the deck before summer.
Has anyone else done this swap? Did you have any issues?

Matt G. · #2 11-09-2010, 08:22 PM

I haven't done this, although I do have the axle so I know what you're working with. The very late 82 series-style tractors have the 3-turn box, and it's basically the same as a 149 box, but it'll probably have a longer length, which isn't really a problem. 1811, etc. should have it. The worm from the tilt box should fit if the overall outer dimensions are the same. You'd probably have to compare stuff. If you are going to weld a shaft extension on it, you'd really need to face both mating ends on a lathe, and perhaps put an alignment pin in the center to keep both pieces coaxial and hopefully lessen the warping when it is welded together. Please don't cut up a good steering shaft...I'd probably have a shaft with a bad worm and good splines that could be cut to length

There should be two holes in the pitman arm on the LH spindle. I'm pretty sure the inner hole is for PS and the outer one for manual steering to give you more of a mechanical advantage with the manual steering. The way the geometry is on this axle, IIRC, the arm length for the pitman arm is much less towards the travel extremes, which increases the steering force. There's also some other geometry stuff that's contributing to that that I won't go into. Lastly, if the toe in is wrong, it will be hard to steer. Set that correctly (1/8" toe in) and see if it helps.

cub149 · #3 11-09-2010, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

if you are going to weld a shaft extension on it, you'd really need to face both mating ends on a lathe, and perhaps put an alignment pin in the center to keep both pieces coaxial and hopefully lessen the warping when it is welded together. Please don't cut up a good steering shaft...I'd probably have a shaft with a bad worm and good splines that could be cut to length

There should be two holes in the pitman arm on the LH spindle. I'm pretty sure the inner hole is for PS and the outer one for manual steering to give you more of a mechanical advantage with the manual steering. Lastly, if the toe in is wrong, it will be hard to steer. Set that correctly (1/8" toe in) and see if it helps.

First off to relive your concern, I have a bent shaft from my 149 that got crashed (long story and there is a post here about it). My thought was to just clamp the shafts onto a piece of angle iron to hold them straight and just weld a spot and spin it and weld, etc.... My concern is that the shaft from a 149 is not solid, but hollow unlike the 1860.

The pitman arm on this one only has one hole. The toe in is close but I haven't taken the time to set it dead on by marking the tires etc... I just measured from the center of the tread and didn't make a mark per manual. I will do that but don't think that is the problem. I think I just need the extra leverage the three turn worm will give is what it needs.

Sam Mac · #4 11-10-2010, 07:53 AM

Did to my 1210 what your doing with the axel + box from a 1440. Woodward makes a coupler that fits the shaft from the tilt type box then all you need to do is cut the upper shaft and weld it to the coupler and get a piece of exhaust tube to fit to lengthen the column. PM me if you need more info and pics.

jbollis · #5 11-10-2010, 03:24 PM

I have seen the pictures of SAMS build. It is a very nice / clean way to do it.

I did the same on a 1211 with the axle from a 1863 or 4 can't remember now. But it raised the front of mine nearly 2 inches. And It has the same problem, about a half turn from lock it gets tight. I believe it is just the way it is going to be. I think it is the combination of the spindle being moved foreword and the angle they are in the casting at. When you get near the full lock position the drag link is almost pulling/pushing straight on the steering arm. This greatly reduces the power/lever advantage. Mine is not as noticeable when it moving and I try turn it.

EDIT, My axle must have been from an 1863 as only the models with power steering had the two hole steering arms.