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#1
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I have adjusted my 1450 for the correct neutral position 3 times. Neutral is fine until I finish mowing and park the tractor. Then I see that neutral is off. First 2 times it was in forward to get neutral, the 3rd time it was in reverse to get neutral. I also have the trunnion problem, she slows down going uphill. The tranny oil level is good.
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#2
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If the trunion is worn, you will never get neutral to be in the same place reliably. You need to fix that first and then re-do the operational neutral adjustment, which must be done with the tractor warm.
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#3
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hanks Matt. I'll get the parts ordered.
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#4
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cdlong,
You mention that your 1450 "slows down going uphill". Keep in mind that a hydrostat transmission is not a cruse control, when going uphill your ground speed will decrease, just as your tractor will speed up going downhill.
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE |
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#5
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It just seems to slow down moe than it should. Keep in mind it's been years sinc I had my JD 140H3.
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#6
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I have done the trunnion repair and I still have to adjust for neutral every time I use her. I replaced the plate, pins and springs. Notice the comparison pics of both plates. Very little wear. Almost no wear in the plate the springs and pins go in. I have included photos of the other plates and linkage as best as I could. I did notice that I have 1/8" play in the rod that gos from the tranny up behind the dash.
Let me know if you need better, (larger) pics. Thanks
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Papaw 1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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#7
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That may be as good as it gets. You probably need to replace all of the little ball joints in the hydro linkage to get it to adjust reliably. The QLs have an overly complex linkage system under the dash, and it's pretty hard to get it to work smoothly. I had a 1450 and 1650, and neither one had a very smooth-operating trans, on account of the linkage under the dash. The 82 series has a MUCH better design and is more easily made to work smoothly.
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#8
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Thanks Matt. I just put everything back together. I noticed that when I put the shifter all the way down in reverse and push the brake pedal, the shifter goes into neutral. When I do the same in forward, the shifter stops at the end of the forward gate, (cut out in dash). It does not return to neutral.
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Papaw 1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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#9
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My 1250 does almost the same thing. Goes back to neutral position from reverse just fine, but is an inch or more short of making it to neutral from the forward position. It still stops and does not want to creep forward. I rarely if ever use the brake for stopping anyway, only to set the brake if on an incline or trailer. I have always used the hydro lever to stop with. I also did the trunion repair, shimmed the plates and all that was suggested. I haven't replaced any of the linkage ends tho, but I can easily live with how it works. Definitely a 100% better than when I got it back in the early spring from the PO.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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#10
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The 1250, I used to own, did the same thing.
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
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