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#1
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Good Morning.
Memorial Day! I finally got my PTO Clutch re-built & everything put back together on my 123. Got the blades sharpened, adjustments made to belt, .015 on the new pressure button . Cuts like a champ! That is until I rounded one corner and hear a POP!! Now the hydrostatic drive is not driving, forward or reverse. It was late last night, so I pushed it into the garage. I’m gong out to take a peek this morning and see what, if anything I can find wrong. Man I hope it is a simple fix. LOL, I have ZERO experience with a hydrostatic rear end. And no manual either. I’ll post back in a bit with what I find, or with mass confusion. Not sure which will happen first. ![]()
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With God in life all things are possible............... In the garage a cheater bar helps. ![]() 123, 1650. |
#2
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I think you lost/broke either a spirol pin on the rear coupler of the driveshaft, or the solid pin at the front of the driveshaft.
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#3
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Thanks Matt! I'll look back there next. It just did not make sense as hard as that little transaxle was pulling for something to be wrong in there. Combine that with the lack of any reaction from the drive / disengage lever on the right of the tractor.
Of course I started looking in at the connections at the top & working my way down from there. LOL. I guess instead of Shroty, I could be called Wrong way.
__________________
With God in life all things are possible............... In the garage a cheater bar helps. ![]() 123, 1650. |
#4
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Well Matt I lucked out! I finally got the time to go looking for the cause.
Pulled off the drive shaft cover and yep...you nailed it. The solid pin had gone missing. Something black caught my eye laying in the bottom of the pan under the drive shaft. Sure enough, there lay the missing pin. I did notice that the bolt on keeper plate had some radial wear. Not bad for a 43 year old origional part, but bad enough I'm going to pull it, braze in the wear spot and re-mill the keyway before I put it back together. Maybe it will be good for another 43 years. LOL. I appreciate the help Matt. The 123 is new to me and this is going to be a work in progress. This winter I may well pull it al the way down and repaint. But for the first summer I want to keep her runing right next to the 1650. Less time in the yard for me means more time in the saddle.
__________________
With God in life all things are possible............... In the garage a cheater bar helps. ![]() 123, 1650. |
#5
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Glad to hear you got it figured out
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#6
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For the sake of discussion on a rainy day, will brazing hold up on that drive hub? (That's a $70+ MSRP part, BTW).
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#7
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Probably not for long. I've gas-welded a couple with good results.
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#8
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I know I could buy a new one, but I tend to squeak when I walk.
__________________
With God in life all things are possible............... In the garage a cheater bar helps. ![]() 123, 1650. |
#9
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Well, here we are coming up on Labor Day. The 123 has been a trooper!
The gas weld on the drive yolk is still holding well, which is more than I can say for my rebuild of the PTO. I was mowing away over the weekend when I heard a wierd rattle, got off checked it out. Yep, PTO rattling like crazy. shut it off, yep clutch plates broken! Started pulling things down. The PTO Clutch needs to be rebuilt. I have felt around in the set screw holes and do not feel any set screws. The clutch is loose on the shaft, but will not come all the way off. It wobbles around, but will not come off. What do I do to remove the clutch assembly so that I can rebuild it, AGAIN?
__________________
With God in life all things are possible............... In the garage a cheater bar helps. ![]() 123, 1650. |
#10
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There should be set screws in the holes, they may be filled with dirt and hard to notice them.
I feel your pain, the PTO clutch came appart on my dads 100 the second time in about 1 1/2 years. It's nearly 50 years old and it comes apart twice within two years? ![]() |
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