782D hydro/rear end seals

[Merchlewitz]

I found a broken bolt on my 782D i have the rear end separated and I am going to have to take off one whole side to reverse the bolt out..

I also have a hydraulic leak somewhere I think it's either a lip seal or the cork gasket.. I was told to use neopreen from Napa and make a seal instead of buying the cork seal..

My question is what seals should I replace since I have everything already apart.. is there a kit with everything?

Any information or tips are greatly appreciated!

[R Bedell]

I also have a hydraulic leak somewhere I think it's either a lip seal or the cork gasket.. I was told to use neopreen from Napa and make a seal instead of buying the cork seal..

Yes you can but...why ??? The 921-3004 Gasket is only $6.89 from Cub Cadet.

My question is what seals should I replace since I have everything already apart.. is there a kit with everything?

You could, that is up to you. Not a big problem that I am aware of. As far as a kit, not aware of that either. You would have to buy the individual gaskets and seals.

[ol'George]

Good advice from Roland,as always.
The cork gasket lasted 40 years, or so why reinvent the wheel, although nothing wrong with neoprene.
3 out of 4 lip seals on the hydro are replaceable from the exterior. as well as
the charge pump "O" ring.
The 4th behind the trunion requires disassembly of the hydro.
The fact your asking questions here, would lead me to not advise a novice to try it.
I'd advise,
repair yer bolt problems, and of course the cork gasket as you have it off, and if you want to fix, what is not leaking, as far as seals, your call.
If you want to replace axle seals as you have the housings off, no problem there.
The rear cover gasket is a no brainer.

[Merchlewitz]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Good advice from Roland,as always.
The cork gasket lasted 40 years, or so why reinvent the wheel, although nothing wrong with neoprene.
3 out of 4 lip seals on the hydro are replaceable from the exterior. as well as
the charge pump "O" ring.
The 4th behind the trunion requires disassembly of the hydro.
The fact your asking questions here, would lead me to not advise a novice to try it.
I'd advise,
repair yer bolt problems, and of course the cork gasket as you have it off, and if you want to fix, what is not leaking, as far as seals, your call.
If you want to replace axle seals as you have the housings off, no problem there.
The rear cover gasket is a no brainer.

How involved are changing the lip seals? If i can get to 3 of the that should work..

Also once I replace these seals is there a way to test if it leaks besides hooking it all back up and putting pressure back through the hydro?

[innocent1bystander]

So, all good advice. General advice to anyone with a hydro leak they can't track down is to add some UV dye to the hydro oil and track it with a black light--easy to spot. I split my tractor twice to replace that cork gasket thinking that was the leak and it turned out the leak is the lip seal (the #5 on the right side of the attachment). I could have saved myself hours of work and scaring the children when the leak was still there the second time just by using some dye.

I believe what ol'george is saying is that (in the attached image) the (circled in red) lip seals #5 (x2) and #47 can be replaced w/o breaking down the hydro ("from the exterior"). #4 is another story (please correct me if I'm wrong, anyone). The lip seals (#5) are $23 each on partstree and Cub Cadet or $37 on Amazon. The cork gasket is a no-brainer, use the Cub part.

I haven't done the repair of the #5 seal yet, hope it isn't too difficult.

I fix my own cars/trucks but would be nervous about tearing down the transmission w/o some assistance.

[ol'George]

No need for special die/lights,just clean things up well with your favorite cleaner,
when dry, dust suspected area with baby powder, all too soon a leak path will point you to the leak.
KISS.
Cross reference those seal numbers, I'm sure the last few I purchased were not that expensive.

[innocent1bystander]

I like the baby powder trick. I already have a couple of lights and a couple of drops of UV dye that I had in my toolbox is a lot easier than cleaning everything up twice (I admit I'm lazy).

Was I right about which seals we can replace from the exterior? I'm fairly new to these tractors but am already in love. Thanks for your help ol'George, it's kind of you to take time to straighten out us newbies.

[Merchlewitz]

Thanks for all the info guys I do appreciate it.. got the cork seal replaced tonight... and opened the rear end up by taking the rear plate off I still have to remove the whole right side to reverse a broken bolt out.. I took all 6 bolts out.. do I have to do anything special to remove the right hub and axle now?

[finsruskw]

"C" clips on the ends of the axles inside the case need to come off to pull the axles.

The tubes do not need to be removed to replace the outer seals.
Be careful not to damage the bearings while prying out the seals.

You should have cleaned that area all around the pump before you pulled it.
DO NOT let any crud fall inside while you have it apart and thoroughly clean the inside of the case before replacing the cover.
And of course, use a new (correct) filter and fluid.

There may be globs of slimy stuff stuck to the inside of the case. That's the HyTran doing it's thing, encapsulating any moisture that finds it's way in there through condensation, leaks etc.

Good luck!

[Oak]

I'd put a set of rear end braces on it while you have it apart.
http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html

Drill the case for oil return too.