Cub Cadet 1650 Electric PTO Clutch

[mattoney]

Hello all. I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine in the 1650 I bought last August. I'm stripping everything off the block so I can take it and get it machined. In the process of pulling the electric PTO off, I found it in the condition in the picture below.

This is the first time I'm tearing into an electric PTO. I believe this is the potting compound around the coils breaking down. Is this correct?

I can't really tell you much about the condition of the clutch in operation because the engine wasn't healthy enough to turn the 50" mower deck for very long.

I read there's an Ogura clutch (silver) in color, and a Warner clutch (black). All I see is rusty brown and faded black, so I'm still not sure what I have here. It's probably obvious, but I'm blind to it at the moment.

At this point, I'm researching my options. I found what a new clutch from Cub Cadet costs. I found one from Xtreme Outdoor Power Products. I also found a thread on here where someone had sent their field out for rebuild and repotting, but didn't find any contact info. Does anyone know who I can contact?

Thanks for your time!

[twoton]

Did you check the coil for continuity? Should be 3.00 - 3.4 ohms. If you can rule out a short and see no visible damage to the wiring you should try cleaning it up and applying a coating of 2 part epoxy to cover the windings. The kind they sell in the hardware store that's in the two barrel syringe.

[R Bedell]

Should be 3.00 - 3.4 ohms. If you can rule out a short and see no visible damage to the wiring you should try cleaning it up and applying a coating of 2 part epoxy to cover the windings.

Ditto. As a suggestion on other coating alternatives are: J/B Weld and silicon sealant.

[RAC65]

Yup! Got an extra year and a half out of mine after the epoxy thing. Maybe you'll do better. Electric motor cleaner, blow dry, lay on flat surface, slather in epoxy (with a fairly high temp rating it gets hot), lay a sheet of wax paper over it and a flat board with a weight so that the epoxy cures flat with the winding carriage face (not much space in there it can't bulge up).
My tractor (1650) now has a newer floating style clutch off of a donor tractor, don't even remember what it was, Sears, Husky, TSC, doesn't really matter. They're all 12 v neg. (floating style is 2 wire, has to have a ground wire). As long as pulley diameter is about the same (I went fractionally larger) and the shaft diameter matches it'll work. Just use machine spacers to adjust the front to back spacing on the crank and install a bolt in one of the original mounting holes to act as the anti-spin pin/stop for the magnet winding and shazam!, you've upgraded to a 40 year newer clutch style.
Oh... check your 12v power lead to the winding. right where it goes in through the metal case. It likely needs some attention. Bet the insulation is cracked.

[ol'George]

I've also repaired some with hobby epoxy as mentioned by others, with good success.

[mattoney]

Thank you all for the advise. I measured the continuity at 2.6 ohms, but it's also pretty nasty looking. I'll get some electrical winding cleaner and clean it out before trying to measure again. Then I'll report back here before filling with epoxy.

Will report back when I can!