Flex couplings in 1200

Ronnie125 · #1 06-04-2017, 10:07 PM

I'm getting ready to do the engine cradle mod and replace both the ISO mounts and the clutch on my 1200. My question is can I put in 2 flex couplings or just replace it with the one? I thought I read somewhere that the later QL tractors had 2 and if that was only for the hydros. Also, will I need to do anything other than using longer bolts in the flex couplings if I use 2 rather than one? Thanks.

DeltaCub · #2 06-04-2017, 10:27 PM

Ronnie, personally I would stay with one flex coupling. Also for gear drive models I would use solid engine mounts and an old style 3 pin driver. In my experience, QuietLine gear drive tractors are particularly sensitive to correct shaft alignment due to the ISO mounts. Clutch vibration can occur and it is very annoying! Make sure the bushing in the drive plate and input shaft adapter and bushing on transmission are tight (no wobble). Also make sure the drive shaft is not worn at clutch release bearing area and clutch release arm is not worn at pivot area. Have fun!

dodge trucker · #3 06-04-2017, 11:34 PM

I'm about to drop the engine back into a 1200 (maybe as soon as tomorrow after work) after an overhaul and a bout with some oven cleaner and a power washer, and I'm gonna try the solid mount and old style 3 pin clutch idea... mostly cuz it's what I have laying around collecting dust.
I'm thinking it'll shake about as much as my 129 which really isn't much at all.
I did do the cradle mod and muffler crutch along the way, as well.....

Ronnie125 · #4 06-05-2017, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeltaCub

Ronnie, personally I would stay with one flex coupling. Also for gear drive models I would use solid engine mounts and an old style 3 pin driver. In my experience, QuietLine gear drive tractors are particularly sensitive to correct shaft alignment due to the ISO mounts. Clutch vibration can occur and it is very annoying! Make sure the bushing in the drive plate and input shaft adapter and bushing on transmission are tight (no wobble). Also make sure the drive shaft is not worn at clutch release bearing area and clutch release arm is not worn at pivot area. Have fun!

Thanks for the information. What is the benefit of the 3 pin driver?

DeltaCub · #5 06-05-2017, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie125

Thanks for the information. What is the benefit of the 3 pin driver?

You have a 3 pin driver now...but it is flexible to accommodate movement of the engine and driveline. These are prone to cracking and are very expensive to replace. Eliminate this flex plate and use an older solid 3 pin driver AND solid engine mounts.

Ronnie125 · #6 06-05-2017, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeltaCub

You have a 3 pin driver now...but it is flexible to accommodate movement of the engine and driveline. These are prone to cracking and are very expensive to replace. Eliminate this flex plate and use an older solid 3 pin driver AND solid engine mounts.

Got it. I thought it was already a 3 pin. You had me slightly confused for a minute thinking my tractor is different.

Won't solid mounts cause more vibration? My father uses my tractors and his back can't take the extra vibration. My 125 runs smooth, but he can't use it because of the vibrations.

vr4Legacy · #7 06-05-2017, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie125

Got it. I thought it was already a 3 pin. You had me slightly confused for a minute thinking my tractor is different.

Won't solid mounts cause more vibration? My father uses my tractors and his back can't take the extra vibration. My 125 runs smooth, but he can't use it because of the vibrations.

I don't think my 1200 vibrates too bad at all with solid mounts. I have other driveline issues right now, but with the clutch in it feels just fine. But I really don't think my 149 is too bad either. Not sure if there would be much difference in a NF v WF in terms of vibration and solid mounting. Perhaps comparing to a 125 isn't a good comparison.

As for 2 rag joints, I'm fairly certain you'll need to drill and move your rear coupler forward to accommodate for the extra thickness. I can't really see the advantage though. I don't read much on here about rag joints breaking, unless it was on a really old tractor or something got caught up in there.

IMO, if something causes enough binding on the driveline to break a rag joint, I'd rather only have one to break and avoid something else breaking along the way. Otherwise, keep an eye on it periodically and if you see it breaking down, get a new one. But I'd say it will take a decade or two to get that far gone. I'm sure there are plenty of 40 year old tractors running around with original single rag joints.