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  #1  
Old 02-05-2017, 01:11 AM
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Manfjourde Manfjourde is offline
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Default Fix(ed) leaky tank

What do you recommend to fix a slow seep? It's coming from this area but hard to tell exactly where.
IMG_5273.jpg
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2017, 04:31 AM
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Make sure the nipple has Teflon tape. I got one the other week that had epoxy caked on it in that spot and it ended up being the nipple wasn't properly sealed.
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2017, 04:42 AM
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Manfjourde Manfjourde is offline
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Okay I did some more testing and it is coming out of the corner to where I am pointing. I can't see anything so I'm thinking a pin hike. What do you recommend to do to the area?
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Old 02-05-2017, 07:43 AM
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Interested to hear the replies as well. I bought a Cadet last year with about 1/2 tube of Loctite smeared around it. I suppose fuel tank sealer would do the job fine, but always looking to hear what others have to say.
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Old 02-05-2017, 07:59 AM
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Here's a couple

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=2187

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40573
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2017, 09:34 AM
mortten mortten is offline
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Clean it good and resolder it. Open flame is a no-no
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Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift
1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist.
50C deck converted to an A with front wheels
44C deck converted to an A with front wheels.
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  #7  
Old 02-05-2017, 11:20 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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X2 on re-soldering it. Sandblasing that area is the best way to clean it good.

Wash the tank out with water, then use a shop vac to air the tank out. It's best to set the vacuum to blow and stick the hose in the fill port. It will take some time. I prefer to do this kind of repair in the summer, as when you put the tank outside in the sun, the water (and fuel vapor) evaporates/evacuates quickly. Your trying to remove the vapor. Mortten says no open flame, but I don't know if you could get the tank hot enough to solder without a torch unless you have a really big soldering gun. As long as you remove the vapor, your fine. I use an open flame after evacuating all the vapor and never had an issue.

Don't bother with any other type of epoxy or goo or "magic" whatever. This is a metal tank, and gas will eat through anything else, I promise. People try it all the time and it never works.... then someone who knows how to fix it spends a whole day trying to get the crap they put on the tank off so it can be soldered. Just do it right the first time.
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  #8  
Old 02-05-2017, 12:25 PM
mortten mortten is offline
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These are what I use.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0691.jpg (16.6 KB, 249 views)
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Doug

Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift
1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist.
50C deck converted to an A with front wheels
44C deck converted to an A with front wheels.
QA-36A
42" blade
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  #9  
Old 02-05-2017, 09:05 PM
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I agree, resolder that joint, that should fix it. I did use Red Kote on my 72's tank which had a bunch of pin hole leaks. It seems to be holding up after 3 or 4 years. I'd use it again.
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Old 02-05-2017, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mortten View Post
These are what I use.
Those would work well. I don't have any. I do have a very, very small tip for my acetylene torch though.
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