Electric front pto problem

Mr Bob · #1 07-19-2016, 01:08 PM

I use a simplicity broadmoor to cut my grass. I have 2 cub 149 tractors. One is for snowblowing, the other is being redone to look nice. I need some help with the simplicity. I went on a simplicity forum but did not receive much help. If this is not proper, then Moderator please delete this post. When I am mowing the pto will not re-engage after being shut off with the switch. The pto is very hot to the touch. After it cools down in about an hour, it will re-engage with the switch. I use the switch that allows it to turn the blades while in reverse. I can cut all my grass this way, but if I forget and turn off the blades it will not re start them. The belt on the pto to the deck will not move after cutting the grass. It should be able to move by hand. I can release the deck belt tensioner to the pto and the deck spindles will all turn freely. Is my pto toast or could it be a switch problem? All help appreciated.
Thank you and have a great day.
Bob

Sam Mac · #2 07-19-2016, 01:24 PM

Post a couple pics of what you have and some more info like model of simp. maybe we can help.

Edit: No idea what one you have, parts tree show a bunch.
http://www.partstree.com/parts/simpl...arden-tractor/

Mr Bob · #3 07-20-2016, 11:27 AM

Thanks for responding Sam Mac. My parts tree # is 2690947-01. I will try to take a couple of pictures this afternoon. Your help is greatly appreciated. Have a great day.
Bob

darkminion_17 · #4 07-20-2016, 02:12 PM

If it is the switch unplug the pto and see if the blades spin freely.

Looks like a cub one from a 1440,

Sam Mac · #5 07-20-2016, 03:25 PM

Lew that style clutch has the "Air Gap/ Clutch Brake" it shouldn't spin when turned off. If I had to guess I'd say that the field coil is going bad.

Sam Mac · #6 07-20-2016, 04:20 PM

Assuming that your numbers are correct " 2690947-01" it should have a 22HP engine.

If your clutch is dead the Simplicity part # is 1687746YP (replaces 1717664)
CLUTCH (22HP Models Only)
You may want to check these guys out for a replacement.

http://xtremeope.com/simplicity-1687...FdgGgQodbkkHRw

Make sure on the engine, the 22 is the only one that uses this clutch, the other engines have a different part number per parts tree.

Mr Bob · #7 07-21-2016, 12:06 AM

Thanks again for responding Lew & Sam Mac. I have the pto off the tractor and will attach pictures. I also found how to set the air gap, which I have done. Air gap should be .0015 and it was about .0025. Also found instructions on checking out ohm setting and amp draw. Will try to do that in the morning. One bearing seems to be turning very hard. Neither bearing feels rough. Possibly bearing getting hot and tighter. After turning pto off, locked too tight to start back until it cools off. Sam, My tractor is 22 hp but I am not sure that is the correct pto from extreme. Thanks for all the help. Will post my electric findinggs tomorrow. Have a great evening.
Bob

ol'George · #8 07-21-2016, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Bob

Thanks again for responding Lew & Sam Mac. I have the pto off the tractor and will attach pictures. I also found how to set the air gap, which I have done. Air gap should be .0015 and it was about .0025. Also found instructions on checking out ohm setting and amp draw. Will try to do that in the morning. One bearing seems to be turning very hard. Neither bearing feels rough. Possibly bearing getting hot and tighter. After turning pto off, locked too tight to start back until it cools off. Sam, My tractor is 22 hp but I am not sure that is the correct pto from extreme. Thanks for all the help. Will post my electric findinggs tomorrow. Have a great evening.
Bob

just to clear things up, --- air gap .015----------
.0015 is too tight.I'm thinking you just made a typo.

When power is applied, the coil pulls on the clutch plate, it also moves it away from the brake stamping, allowing rotation.
With the proper air gap set, it should work as designed.

Mr Bob · #9 07-21-2016, 09:02 PM

Hi Ol'George,
That .0015 was not a typo but a brain malfunction. I was so tired last night when I was posting that I didn't know which end was up. Unfortunately, I am not quite as tired today and I still don't know which end is up. Back to the PTO. I did the ohms test this evening and it tested 3.4 ohms. The spec. said between 2.8 & 3.2 is ok. Do you feel this .2 above could cause this problem? I will try to do the amp draw test tomorrow. Tractor is in the building and the PTO is in the garage. One bearing is pretty tight to turn but is smooth as silk. Think that as it heats up it gets tighter and causes the problem? Thanks for your input and have a great evening.
Bob

ol'George · #10 07-21-2016, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Bob

Hi Ol'George,
That .0015 was not a typo but a brain malfunction. I was so tired last night when I was posting that I didn't know which end was up. Unfortunately, I am not quite as tired today and I still don't know which end is up. Back to the PTO. I did the ohms test this evening and it tested 3.4 ohms. The spec. said between 2.8 & 3.2 is ok. Do you feel this .2 above could cause this problem? I will try to do the amp draw test tomorrow. Tractor is in the building and the PTO is in the garage. One bearing is pretty tight to turn but is smooth as silk. Think that as it heats up it gets tighter and causes the problem? Thanks for your input and have a great evening.
Bob

I think that ohmage is close enough.
You can use a syringe and small needle to inject grease under the seal on the bearing, most times saving it, or if it is replaceable, you can put in a new bearing ( most are)
too large an air gap most generally, causes a non engagement when warm/hot.