Restoration Help

[Gregory]

Folks I've been a contributor to this forum but for a few years I've been lurking on this forum while rebuilding a few old cars. I've bought a model 70 a few years ago for my son and made repairs so that it would run. It's been one of the best machines I've ever had. So now I'm ready to restore this tractor. Currently it is apart and I'll be priming the frame, hood, axle this weekend. I'll start another thread on that project. What I'm looking for is a little guidance on some parts I'm not familiar with that much. That is tires. How do I get the rubber off the rims so I can paint them. Also is it better to paint the rims and then install the tires or the other way around.
Any help would be appreciated.

Greg

[TheSaturnV]

I've made friends with a small local tire shop and they typically bust tires off my garden tractor wheels for free or close to it. Don't kill yourself trying to get them off, plus the shop can properly dispose of the old ones if needed.

Regarding the rims, sandblast or wire wheel all the rust and crud off. Hang the wheel from a rafter or limb outside. I usually paint the inner rim with some highly rust resistant paint or even something like POR15. Rust converter works well too, and leaves a good finish for paint. Prime and paint the whole thing while hanging.

When you get the new rubber mounted, the shop will likely scuff the edges up but this can be touched up. Just deflate the tire and shove postcards (junkmail) between the bead. If you have enough cards, you can go all the way around the wheel (it will look like a funnel). One of my videos below shows exactly what I'm talking about.

Just my system, works pretty well.

[Gregory]

Thanks TheSaturnV. It sounds like a regular tire machine then can be used to change the tires. Wasn't sure for I've never had tires changes smaller than that on a car.
Good suggestion on the back sides of the rim to protect against rust. The backs seem to rust up faster than the front sides.
My plan is to spray an use rust converter on the rims as I have already done to the frame, hood and fenders. Next is to spray an marine based epoxy primer on all parts. I have the primer left over from another project and have to use it up.

I've made one improvement which didn't come from the factory with this tractor. When removing the axle I discovered that the roll pin was broken and the pin was frozen to the axle. Trying to remove this was futal without heat. An acetylene torch, a brass drift and a BIG hammer worked great. It took awhile but had to get the axle cherry red to free the pin. The improvement is to put a zerk fitting in the axle so as to keep the axle from seizing up again, along with a new pin.

Since I'm still in the planning stages, what other improvements can I make ?

[Cub Cadet 123]

Along with what TheSaturnVhas already stated, I would put tubes in the tires, even if they are tubeless. The moisture in the air will accelerate the rusting process of the rims and having tubes in there will slow this process down.

There is a Restoration Tips category in the forum that you may wish to look at as you progress through your restoration. A lot of great ideas from very knowledgeable people is there.

Depending on how particular you are, if you want to make it look like it is straight off the assembly line, then you can intentionally put some flaw in your work--like a run in your paint, as they rolled off the assembly line that way.

My last suggestion would be to post some pictures for us of your progress. If you have been here a while, as stated, then you know how much we like pictures!

Looking forward to seeing your progress....

Cub Cadet 123

[Yosemite Sam]

There should have been a grease zirk in the front axle from the factory. Back side, on the right of the pin hole.

[Gregory]

Yosemite Sam, it appears that the early versions of this tractor didn't have a grease fitting, or I got an odd-ball. This is a 1963 70. Probably later version did. The pin that came out is straight and flat. The one going back in is notched in the middle for a grease pocket like the ones on may 109 and 1811.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

There should have been a grease zirk in the front axle from the factory. Back side, on the right of the pin hole.

The 100/70s did not have grease zirks in the center of the front axle.

I did rebuild on a IH Cub Cadet 70 and had this thread:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick

Let me know if you need any help.

[Gregory]

Merk, about 2 years ago I read your thread about 5 times and studied every picture. All I can say, amongst other commenters is that is a great job.... How is it holding up today ?

Ok I need an opinion for I'm about to order tires. Currently the rear tires are 23*8.5*12 AG 's and ribbed on the front. Should I replace what is there with new tires or go with the 23*10*12's. Yes they may be wider but the fender will cover allot also. I have a small yard and I'm more interested in traction more than turf tires would give me. So should I go for the wider tread or stay where I'm at. Also what would look good on the tractor ?

[sawdustdad]

When I really want traction for cutting grass on hilly terrain, I use turf tires with chains and leave them on all year long. Even steep slopes with wet grass are no problem.

As for the 70, I like ags on those. here's a pic of my 72 with ags so you can see what is possible.

[cubcadet]

Very nice frank.