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  #1  
Old 07-09-2016, 02:22 AM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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Default Lost directional control
I got about half the lawn mowed and then, lost directional control at the wheel. quick inspection found this. I am pretty sure it was welded once because the welding on the inside of the arm, but I think it originally has a roll pin. I just got a welder, this will be my first repair, if I get the top part out of the arm.

20160708_204004.jpg 20160708_204028.jpg
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127 NF, spring assist, 36" IH Danco BB-36 snowthrower, 42" mower deck. CW-36 snowthrower, 42" NF blade. QA42A blower, 126,127,149,1720.
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  #2  
Old 07-09-2016, 06:58 AM
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ironman ironman is online now
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You've got nothing to lose by trying to weld it but I can't see it working unless you're really good.
A quick search on eBay got this....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-Cub-Cadet...8AAOSwXeJXeFWj
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  #3  
Old 07-09-2016, 07:11 AM
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john hall john hall is offline
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You need a spindle, not a repair job unfortunately. I've worked with quite a few professional welders and all of them would back away from trying to weld that, its just not going to hold. Even if it were "V'd" out and put in a jig for welding, the concentricity between the 2 pieces of shaft would probably be out so much you couldn't get it back through the axle. Ask yourself this, what if it next time it breaks the front end makes a sudden dart toward a building, ditch, curb, parked car----you may have a lot bigger problems. Not trying to be pessimistic, but welding this up as a satisfactory repair isn't very likely.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:10 AM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
You've got nothing to lose by trying to weld it but I can't see it working unless you're really good.
A quick search on eBay got this....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-Cub-Cadet...8AAOSwXeJXeFWj
That is exactly what I need, thank you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by john hall View Post
You need a spindle, not a repair job unfortunately. I've worked with quite a few professional welders and all of them would back away from trying to weld that, its just not going to hold. Even if it were "V'd" out and put in a jig for welding, the concentricity between the 2 pieces of shaft would probably be out so much you couldn't get it back through the axle. Ask yourself this, what if it next time it breaks the front end makes a sudden dart toward a building, ditch, curb, parked car----you may have a lot bigger problems. Not trying to be pessimistic, but welding this up as a satisfactory repair isn't very likely.
You are probably correct, its been welded once before like that, and I always wandered how I was going to fix the spindle if I wanted to take it apart.
The picture of the ones on ebay have the arm solid on top, was the one I have drilled through to get the weld on top of the spindle to the arm?
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  #5  
Old 07-09-2016, 04:35 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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Yes, The top arm is solid on top, not drilled though. The top of the spindle shaft has a hole drilled in it as does the top arm. Top arm sits over it and spiral pin holds them together. Spiral pin is missing in the ebay pics
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  #6  
Old 07-09-2016, 04:58 PM
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Save the shipping and walk over to Jeffs and get one
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2016, 07:19 PM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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I got the new parts about 4 blocks away I am wandering if anyone else has had this trouble and what the best solution to install the pin. Should I use a grade 8 bolt, spirol roll pin, or spring pin.
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2016, 04:20 PM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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Even though the spindle to spindle arm had been broken and welded before, I think that maybe the bolt in the quick attach frame made interference for this to break . I have always put the front bolts in the quick attach to prevent wear on the pins. So I just installed the front bolt only, but sometimes I've had problems getting them loose because the bolt or nut spins on the inside.
Anyways here are some pictures of the axle rotated clockwise showing interference with the bolt and then the final solution. this way it won't hit again.
20160716_125107.jpg 20160716_125644.jpg
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven s View Post
I have always put the front bolts in the quick attach to prevent wear on the pins. So I just installed the front bolt only, but sometimes I've had problems getting them loose because the bolt or nut spins on the inside:
I too, like to put the bolts in to make it nice and solid, especially when using a plow. If/when I have the motor out, I tack weld the nuts to the inside of the frame, even on non-QA tractors. Makes it soooo much easier. Don't understand why I/H didn't do it in production?
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2016, 09:15 AM
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A new Member (Gregory) post this link lately: http://www.spaco.org/loose.htm

You still need a spindle of course! Here Gregory tractor picture:



And his 70 restoration thread:http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=45048
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