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#1
06-15-2016, 08:02 PM
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Help with a dead 1641
Last year, I picked up this 1641 with a little over 200 hours on it. It has been my main mowing tractor since.
Back in April at the start of the mowing season, the tractor wouldn't start. The battery was 7 years old so I got it tested and it was bad. I replaced the battery. Since then I have been mowing two properties with it and probably put about 20 hours on it. I went out to mow today and started the tractor up. I only made it 50' down the drive way and it shut off. I was able to restart it one time and it only ran a few seconds and it shut off. It was dead. No headlights or taillights, no warning lights lit on the dash, and it wouldn't crank. I hooked my battery charger up to it and it showed it was low. I charged the battery for about 15 mins and the head lights worked. I tried starting the tractor and it cranked and started right up. At 1/2 throttle the amp light on the dash was lit. Increasing to 3/4 throttle put out the amp light and the tractor stayed running. I drove it back to the barn and put it away while it stayed running. I am going to pull the battery and take it and get it load tested. It is only three months old, but maybe it has gone bad? I have been cutting 1.5 acres of field grass that is going to be our new new home site with the tractor. It is not very smooth so maybe the vibration got to the battery? If the battery tests good then I must have a charging issue on the tractor. What should I be checking on the tractor to make sure it is charging? I somewhat think it is. The amp light went out with an increase in throttle and while I still had the battery charger hooked up it showed a full charge while the tractor was running. Thanks in advance for any suggestions that anyone has. 
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#3
06-16-2016, 06:15 AM
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Do you own a Multi-Meter? Check the voltage going to the battery.... Good starting point
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#4
06-16-2016, 06:39 AM
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In looking at the 1641 Wiring Diagram, the only thing that I see as far as a device, is a Seat Switch that could go bad, causing a shut down. There are two, according to the diagram, and the one I am referencing is the one with the ORG & YEL wires. AS A TEST......disconnect one of the wires to this switch and see if you have stable engine running.
You also can have, a wire "rubbing" against the metal chassis, causing a short out condition, killing the engine, discharging, and running the battery down. This may be a tad difficult to find, in that one has to closely examine the wiring harness from Front to Back looking for frayed wiring.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#5
06-16-2016, 08:52 PM
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Roland is correct, might try tracing the ground ckt for the mag. Start by making sure the key switch is in good shape where the molex type connector is. That can be cause for alot of grief, then go from there. Does your voltage regulator happen to have a ground wire on it by chance?
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1- 1864 Dual hyd, cat 0, axle braces 1- 1450 Dual Stick w/ power steering 1- 1200 in pieces 1- 1864 in pieces QA36A Thrower, #1 Tiller w/ extensions, IH windbreaker, IH wheel weights, 44C mower deck, 50C mower deck, CCC 54" Blade, GT46 high vacuum deck, GT54 deck, Cub Tripple Bagger, Custom dozer blade, Custom suitcase weights, 3pt cultivator, lawn sweeper, original R-Bucket
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#6
06-16-2016, 10:00 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys.
I got the battery tested today and it was good so no issue there. Roland, I will try your suggestion next time I get a chance to work on the tractor. I had a previous issue with the seat switches but that time it was just the pto shutting off and not the engine. It maybe time just to buy two new switches. Rescue11, thanks for the tips on the key switch and voltage regulator. I wil check them out. I am not sure if the regulator has a ground wire or not. I have to find it first!
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#7
06-17-2016, 06:51 AM
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Vanguard regulators ground through the case. They are bolted to the block. Make sure you don't have some corrosion between the regulator and the block. If you still have problems it's time to get out the meter. The 2 yellow wires coming out of the blower housing should have about 30 volts AC at wide open throttle. The red wire from the regulator should show around 14 volts DC at wide open. For what ever it's worth I'm not impressed with Vanguard regulators so when I have one that craps out I've been replacing them with Kohler regulators.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#8
06-17-2016, 06:59 AM
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As stated in post #3... I guess he doesn't have a meter....Doesn't get any easier than checking at the battery to see if its charging....
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#9
06-20-2016, 08:23 PM
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Well I had a little time today to look at this tractor again.
Leadslingingdaddy, no I don't have a multimeter however it maybe soon time to get one. I started by installing two new seat switches today. I had some trouble with the old ones before so I figured I'd start there. I put the battery back in and the tractor started up but it didn't sound right. It was running pretty rough no matter how much or how little throttle I gave it. At full throttle I tried engaging the PTO and the engine stalled. It sounded like the rpm's were too low even at full throttle. I checked the ground on the tractor and it was clean and tight. I checked as much as I could see of the wiring for any loose connections or rub throughs but did not find any. I removed the voltage regulator and checked it and the block for corrosion and they were both clean. I restarted the tractor and it was still running rough and did not have much throttle response. I just happened to press the brake pedal all the way down before I shut the tractor off and it seemed to cure my problem. As soon as the pedal was fully depressed the engine smoothed out and the rpm's increased. I did this a few times just to make sure and it happened each time. I held the brake down and throttled up and engaged the PTO. The mower spun up like normal and the tractor stayed running. I pulled the tunnel cover and removed the brake pedal interlock switch. The switch feels very rough, like there is dirt inside of it. The side of it is rubbed through the grey plastic from rubbing on the mounting bracket. I called my local dealer for a new switch but he didn't have one in stock. I have it on order and it is to be in by the end of the week. This weekend I plan on stalling the new switch and see how it runs. It was kind of dumb luck that I happened to step on the brake pedal and see this happen. I know the tractor won't start if the brake pedal isn't depressed but I didn't know that this switch could affect the the engine while running?
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#10
06-20-2016, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
 Um.....I am thinking this is not good. The ORG wire from the Brake Switch would kill the engine through the Seat Switch. The RED wire is part of the Start Circuit. The RED/BLK wire goes to the Dash Light(s).
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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