O-Ring Groove in Command Head?

PeterJ · #1 01-23-2016, 12:28 PM

http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsu...-ring-material

Anybody ever try this?

My first race bike, back in 1981, had two O-rings for a head gasket. Yamaha has used them for years and they work great. The theory expressed back in the day was that it helped the head conduct heat down into the cylinder.

I've NEVER heard of a problem with them, but I've never seen them on an industrial air-cooled engine.

Loosing the gasket would raise compression, but I always run 91 octane non-oxygenated gas. I suspect the folks that do this would be able to match the compression ratio to the fuel I run.

PeterJ

PeterJ · #2 01-23-2016, 12:44 PM

Man! These guys know how to get some power out of these V-twins!

122HP 78ftlbs torque 11,800 RPM

https://www.youtube.com/user/MidwestSuperCub

PeterJ

Sam Mac · #3 01-23-2016, 05:14 PM

Peter

I moved this to the puller section, think you'll more reply's here. Just my 2 cents but unless your building a BIG power engine O-rings are not worth the cost and effort for a Kohler.

PeterJ · #4 01-23-2016, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Peter

I moved this to the puller section, think you'll more reply's here. Just my 2 cents but unless your building a BIG power engine O-rings are not worth the cost and effort for a Kohler.

Thanks Sam.

I'd be only looking for rock solid reliability. I've got one sitting with a blown head gasket now, and it seems to be good cure for a very common problem. The price doesn't seem that bad. $52.00 each and that includes the O-ring.

I suspect overheating is the impetus to the head gasket blowing. I think I'm going to look for an oil temp idiot light.

PeterJ

J-Mech · #5 01-23-2016, 11:45 PM

I'm with Sam. Unnecessary.

How about this:
Keep the engine nice and clean, and we'll maintained.
Run regular pump gas, no need for the stuff your running.
Don't look for complex solutions to simple problems. Plane the head, install new bolts and buy a good gasket. This coupled with routine maintenance will give you years of service.

Unless of coarse your talking about the v-twin in your pulling tractor. In that case, by all means, do as you see fit.

dvogtvpe · #6 01-24-2016, 09:22 AM

if you just want a bit more compression just shave the heads, cc the chambers and you can figure your own compression ratio. what hp do you have now? some minor changes you can bump the hp up easily

PeterJ · #7 01-24-2016, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

if you just want a bit more compression just shave the heads, cc the chambers and you can figure your own compression ratio. what hp do you have now? some minor changes you can bump the hp up easily

I'm not pulling, but I do work it hard at times. I know that if the head gasket is replaced with an O-ring it would bump the compression ratio up some.

In the fall I have a lot of leaves to pick up and that works it hard. I leave the leaf blower at my dump site and use it at every dump go blow out all of the leaves. It still gets too hot for my likings.

J-mech- do you prefer the Stens gasket, the Kohler gasket, or some other?

PeterJ

J-Mech · #8 01-24-2016, 11:24 AM

I've used both, but you can't go wrong with genuine Kohler.

Has to be a reason it gets hot. Either it isn't cooling well, or it's running lean.

I always find it interesting when people say their air cooled engine is getting hot, because there is no gauge. Most people don't know the difference between too hot, and normal operating temps. Mainly because few really work an engine up to true max temp. I personally find it hard to believe that blowing leaves makes the engine hot. It's not like they are hard to mulch up. Now.... is the leaf debris plugging up the screens and the engine simply isn't getting enough air to cool.... that's possible.

So I guess my question is, how do you really know it's getting too hot? Have you removed the engine and tins and cleaned it/ looked to see if back of the motor is "caked up" with crud? Are you sure it's not running lean? Because I really doubt your just working it that hard.

Example:
I have a 1050. That is a 10HP Magnum single cylinder with a manual trans. It was made for oh, maybe a 44" deck. I put a 50" deck on it and feed it tall grass until it pulls the engine down almost to the point of lugging it. I have tuned it to run with the governor holding the carb wide open under full load, and I don't let it get a break until I'm done. You can't work a motor harder than that, and it doesn't run hot. Matter of fact, it runs cooler than I though it would. Do you run yours that hard?

Mike McKown · #9 01-24-2016, 04:24 PM

How much can you cut a head on a Command before you have to shorten the pushrods?

PeterJ · #10 01-24-2016, 09:59 PM

J-Mech- I have removed the tin and cleaned everything out. It gets so hot when I am bagging leaves that the cables are stuck the next time I use it. I have a 54"(?) deck with a boost fan for the bagger. I have so many oak leaves that I actually can push them with a snow blade. Also, I have hills. It doesn't get hot just cutting grass.

As I said already, I blow everything off with the leaf blower every time I dump the bags. I have no lean symptoms.

I do have a piece of plate glass that I use to true up parts, and I will get it right when I pull it apart.

But, the reason for the post: Does anybody have any experience with the O-ring head gasket set-up?

Thanks for the input.

PeterJ