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  #1  
Old 06-25-2015, 09:51 AM
Don1450 Don1450 is offline
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Exclamation Flex Coupler Dilemma
I'm doing a full change of the rubber ISO mounts, cradle modification, cast oil pan, etc. and I'm going to change my flex couplers as well. I bought two, one for the front and one for the back. Today I opened the tunnel cover and saw that there are 2 couplers on the rear of the drive shaft. My manual shows just one. Any body know why this is the case? Should I put 2 new ones in or try for just one? will one even work given the length of the shaft? I assume everything is original on this 1978 QL1450.

Front Flex Coupler (new):
2015-06-25 09.42.53.jpg

Double Rear Flex Couplers (old):
2015-06-25 09.42.33.jpg
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  #2  
Old 06-25-2015, 09:54 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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I modified my 1450 and run dual Flex Disc Couplers on both ends of my drive shaft.

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Old 06-25-2015, 10:18 AM
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j4c11 j4c11 is offline
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
I modified my 1450 and run dual Flex Disc Couplers on both ends of my drive shaft.
What is the advantage of running 2? Mine are old and I will need to replace them this winter, might as well go dual if it's better. Will two on each end just fit or is it more involved?
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:22 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
What is the advantage of running 2?
Durablity...........
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CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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Old 06-25-2015, 03:57 PM
Don1450 Don1450 is offline
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Please tell me that you don't need top pull the engine to get the drive shaft out of a QL1450!!!

I just got done buttoning up my tractor. I had the engine out changed the ISO mounts, oil pan, front rag coupler, rebuilt carb, cleaned everything up and finished it all. Saved the rear flex couplers till last. I got the bolts out and it looks like you can't change them out without removing the drive shaft which can't be done with the motor in place.

Somebody please tell me I'm wrong.
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:17 PM
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Berwil Berwil is offline
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Your wrong, does that help?

If you remove the spirol pin from the driveshaft coupling and slide it forward (or the hydro pump coupler and slide it back, I forget) you should have enough room to sneak the driveshaft out. I've taken the driveshaft out of my 1450 without touching the engine, just need to slide one of the couplers.

Bill
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:27 PM
Don1450 Don1450 is offline
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Thank you Bill. You made a back breaking day a bit better. I'm sure rust is going to have me swearing yet, when I try and remove the pins and slide the couplers back. But anything is better than having to remove the motor again.
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:37 PM
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Roy Najecki Roy Najecki is offline
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When you put a pair of flex couplers on both ends of the driveshaft what kind of modifications were needed? I'm guessing to make room the engine and cradle has to be moved forward. And then a longer PTO to mower deck belt might be needed.
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:40 PM
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I'm not 100% sure but I thought I heard one time they run 2 in the back and 1 in the front because if one end fails you want it to be the front. That way you don't have a 3600 rpm shaft beating the heck out of everything.
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:48 PM
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I'm not 100% sure but I thought I heard one time they run 2 in the back and 1 in the front because if one end fails you want it to be the front. That way you don't have a 3600 rpm shaft beating the heck out of everything.
Then you just gotta put two up front and 3 in the back!
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