Need hydro advice or a neck brace!

Dremel · #1 06-12-2015, 07:31 AM

I finally got around to fixing my worn trunion / springs on my 127. Mostly because the drive shaft need to be repaired but that's the way it goes eh?

Anyway, I welded / filled / shaped the trunion back into shape. It used to be very difficult to operate the hydro lever. I'd have to step on the brake pedal to get it from F to R through N. Now the lever moves around like butter. But now it's very jerky. Tends to spin tires in the grass, takes off like a shot and lacks some fine control. I can almost do wheelies on pavement.

What is next on the list after the trunion repair to calm this beast?

Thanks,
Bill

R Bedell · #2 06-12-2015, 07:42 AM

How about some pictures of this repair you done...???

sawdustdad · #3 06-12-2015, 07:54 AM

Did you replace the springs on the trunnion? I've found that a good trunnion repair plus new springs really improves overall operation.

Dremel · #4 06-12-2015, 08:24 AM

Couldn't find my camera to take any pics. It was the standard "slotted" repair as seen on OCC tech library. I did not use keyway stock, just filled and filed with the mig.

I did not replace the springs. I should do that. It was one of those "cub is broken and the grass is getting up there" repairs. I had to split the tractor to get the drive shaft out and doctor that up too because it broke.

I didn't even replace the fluid, which i should do as well.

Thanks,
Bill

Yosemite Sam · #5 06-12-2015, 11:37 AM

This is my stock answer for trunnion problems.

If you have or suspect that you have trunnion problems with your Cub Cadet hydro, start by going here.
http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html

And then here.
http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

More information here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4635

There is a lot of good debate here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=5495

After you have fixed your trunnion your forward-reverse lever and foot pedal may be out of wack, so go here.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

Personally, I see no need to add extra metal pieces to the square hole, unless the ends are worn crooked. I have never had this problem with any that I have fixed. So I simply weld the slots in the corners and then file them back square again.

I think someone said one of my links is dead, I don't know for sure, haven't checked them in awhile.

It also sounds like you may need to adjust the friction on the lever under the dash, I believe you can find that information in your repair manual.

Good Luck.

dale c. · #6 06-12-2015, 10:25 PM

there is a plastic bushing at the bottom of the shaft that the handle mounts to ,it has a bolt that you can tighten to put friction on the shaft so it doesn't move so easy tighten a little at a time if you get it too tight you'll have trouble moving the lever ,if it won't tighten enough you'll need to replace the bushing

drglinski · #7 06-13-2015, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dale c.

there is a plastic bushing at the bottom of the shaft that the handle mounts to ,it has a bolt that you can tighten to put friction on the shaft so it doesn't move so easy tighten a little at a time if you get it too tight you'll have trouble moving the lever ,if it won't tighten enough you'll need to replace the bushing

Would tightening the hydro lever eliminate jerkiness?

olds45512 · #8 06-13-2015, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drglinski

Would tightening the hydro lever eliminate jerkiness?

Yes, when the lever moves to freely its hard to make fine adjustments which leads to it being jerky. Funny thing is my gear drive is never jerky.

Dremel · #9 06-13-2015, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

Yes, when the lever moves to freely its hard to make fine adjustments which leads to it being jerky. Funny thing is my gear drive is never jerky.

Maybe it's not the gear drive.. Maybe it's me?

Just kidding. I think the lever could use a little more stiction in it..

Bill