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  #1  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:37 AM
1650noob 1650noob is offline
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Location: Pennsylvania
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Default 1650 steering wheel removal
Hmmm, now that I got the fenders off another goal is giving me fits. Is there a special puller for the steering wheel? That thing won't come off! Suggestions?



Thanks,
Nate
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  #2  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:45 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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This guy makes a nice tool for removing stuck wheels.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8FjiG-Mzz4
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:42 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Got a big brass drift??
Soak the shaft/nut w/WD-40 or whatever...for a while maybe?
Put the seat back on and sit on it w/your knees crammed up under the wheel
If Ya are a short wheelbase guy, Ya may need to shim up under yer feet w/2x4's or sumthin'
back the nut off till its flush w/the top of the shaft
set the drift on the nut/shaft
put as much pressure up under the wheel w/your knees as possible
and smack the drift w/a BFH

Simple , huh??

Has Worked every time for me

Unless Ya wanna spend big bucks for a puller ypu will probably only use once!!

Dave S.
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2013, 03:01 PM
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PaulS PaulS is offline
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Had the same problem with a 102 steering wheel. Soaked that thing for over a week but no luck. Another member, Matt G. shows a wood support that fits under the wheel and a wheel puller fits to it and I made one in about 10 minutes. Wheel popped right off. Made the price of the puller worth the cost.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:07 PM
MSIXTEEN MSIXTEEN is offline
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To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:56 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSIXTEEN View Post
To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:44 PM
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When using a wheel puller do not screw the center bolt right to the end of the threaded shaft that holds the wheel. I used a piece of flat steel over the end of the steering col and then the center bolt of the puller on that. You never want to apply any pressure directly to the end of the steering shaft or it will either split or otherwise mess up the threads.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart.
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  #8  
Old 03-26-2013, 06:17 AM
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Cubcrazy Cubcrazy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSIXTEEN View Post
To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:23 AM
MSIXTEEN MSIXTEEN is offline
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Thanks all I'm also a cub newbie I just passing on what I learned . Hopefully you don't ruin your wheel like I did
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:04 AM
1650noob 1650noob is offline
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Thanks for the tips. Will give it a try.
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