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#1
04-19-2015, 11:20 AM
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1864 Engine Removal
I mowed with the 1864 the other day and that's a sweet little tractor! I love it! I noticed the engine was a little warm when I was done. Not overly hot but the heat coming off the engine definitely fealt hotter than it should especially since it was a cool day. One thing I didn't do was remove the engine and clean it so Id like to do that before it becomes a problem. Im fairly certain this is the issue that blew the head gaskets on the 2165.
My question is, how involved is removing the engine for a clean up? Looks to me like I need to remove the throttle and choke cables, fuel line, wires to starter, drive shaft ad engine mounting plate bolts. Am I missing anything? Just looking it over, it looks pretty simple but Ive never had the engine out of a tractor and I need everything to go smooth as the grass is getting tall again as we speak!
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1994 Cub Cadet 1864 1997 Cub Cadet 2165 
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#4
04-19-2015, 02:13 PM
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There's also a ground wire to the bottom left side of the block and a wire to the pto clutch. Get a new foam ring to go between the firewall and blower housing. Now would be a good time to get a pcv hose, fuel line and like bugeye said do the cv joints and probably replace the boots. I also had to replace the grease zerks in my 1782 driveshaft with the screw in style. If you think it may need head gaskets, now is the time to do that too.
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2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck   
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#5
04-19-2015, 02:52 PM
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No need to remove the driveshaft. It will slip right out of the drive coupler on the engine.
Having a hoist is a big benefit as the engine mounting plate needs to be tilted and wiggled just right for it to clear the bolts on the lift cylinder bracket and the PS bracket.
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#6
04-19-2015, 03:47 PM
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I don't know how everyone else is doing this for sure, but I just unbolted the block from the mount plate (4 bolts w/nuts, 2 can't drop out because of the axle mount), disconnected the driveshaft and lifted the engine out. No tilting or wiggling required and seems easier than dragging the plate out with the engine. I will admit, I'm a big boy and it's no problem for me to lift the engine by hand. I can't seem to get a Mag out this way, but the Command was easy.
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2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck
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#7
04-19-2015, 04:36 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys. Hoping to tackle this in a couple days. I don't have an engine hoist but I may be able to rig up a comealong(sp) from the rafters or something.
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1994 Cub Cadet 1864 1997 Cub Cadet 2165
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#9
04-19-2015, 06:06 PM
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Yep and it never even crossed my mind to look at I before I posted. I keep forgetting that I have it. Besides, I just checked it out and all the steps I mentioned are listed but none of the tips given here are in there.
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1994 Cub Cadet 1864 1997 Cub Cadet 2165
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#10
04-20-2015, 08:08 AM
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I also lifted and re-installed the engine by the armstrong method. I'm not strong or young, 60+. Using a piece of wood across the frame rails will support the engine on the plate allowing re-positioning of a grip or rest and alignment. Remove of the sheet metal around the muffler allows a good place to grab.
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