Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-12-2015, 12:12 PM
Daniel1962's Avatar
Daniel1962 Daniel1962 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: TX
Posts: 90
Default Rusty metal paint/primer/prep

Good morning folks, I've just finished sanding and removing paint on the hood
of the 1200. I see now that I have several areas of rust, No deep pitting just patches of surface rust that is still there after a thorough wet sanding.
What do you folks recommend for prep? I thought about using some of that
red putty in a tube, its sandable.
any thoughts?

thanks
Dave
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hood.jpg (33.4 KB, 238 views)
__________________


1976 Cub Cadet 1200 & 44A mower
1964 Cub Cadet 100,
No Attachments at this time, I do have a cart to pull stuff around.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-12-2015, 12:25 PM
raytasch raytasch is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: West central FL
Posts: 106
Default

I am in no way a professional painter or wise in all phases of paint surface prep. I have, however restored and refurbished some old tractors, cars and trucks. You do need to kill that rust with something designed to do so. I've successfully used Ospho, Pickelx, phosphoric acid based, or one of the currently popular rust converters. Your choice of products is dependent on what final paint you choose. One or more of the pros will be along soon.
__________________
122 original, well used. Owned since 1972
2182 new to me. Refurbished and gave to my son.
Deere 4300 4WDA HST with FEL
Many old Ford tractors, all gone now
Couple old Ford trucks
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-12-2015, 12:35 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

First of all, you don't want to wet sand bare metal. No reason too and you don't want it smooth or paint won't stick. You want to sand it with about 320 then paint it with a 2K sandable primer/filler or an epoxy primer. I prefer epoxy, then 2K then color, but most don't want to spend the money for 3 different paints. I don't do any wet sanding until after I get to color. As far as the rust goes, if you hit it with 320 it should come out. If not, you could sandblast it, or just lay the epoxy over it. It will be fine. Rustoleum makes a primer for lightly rusted metal.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-12-2015, 12:43 PM
Loganvilledude's Avatar
Loganvilledude Loganvilledude is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 75
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel1962 View Post
Good morning folks, I've just finished sanding and removing paint on the hood
of the 1200. I see now that I have several areas of rust, No deep pitting just patches of surface rust that is still there after a thorough wet sanding.
What do you folks recommend for prep? I thought about using some of that
red putty in a tube, its sandable.
any thoughts?

thanks
Dave
Dave I use one of these for jobs like that. I think they still sell them down at Northern. Depending on what I'm blasting I will run baking soda, play sand or that black beauty they sell at TS. Of course you will have to have a compressor, but they work well for small jobs.



The speed blasters will penetrate deep where there is pitting.



And of course a good primer as soon as you clean it off. I clean it by air, simple green, lacquer thinner or tack rags and then prime.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-12-2015, 01:20 PM
cc_bob cc_bob is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 166
Default

That's not bad at all but I would definitely treat the rust with something before primering it. Most rust preps contain acid, I use phosphoric acid that you use for cleaning concrete and dilute it 50% with water.

I got mine from Home Depot but any building supply should have some. Get some rubber gloves and scotch brite while you're there. This thread has a pic of the product I use (step 7). http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=26163

Here's a good video explaining how to use it. If you like cars, watch some of his other videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JML4q2Dfe9g
__________________
I like to keep em running and work them.
1872 (I call her Vera), 782D, 154 Loboy (w/tiller, 3260 deck, and front blade), 3-1650s, 2-1000s, 149, 147, 106, 1810, Farmall Cub, Haban sickle bar (not mounted), No. 2 trailer and several parts tractors.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-12-2015, 04:30 PM
yeeter yeeter is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 723
Default

It doesnt look that bad. I echo the recommendation of sanding (320 on a random orbit would be my choice).

I wouldnt put that red glaze directly on the bare metal. I have had some problems with it not sticking (now this was a long time ago, and I wont say I prepped it properly, so others may have better experience).

Sometimes I have treated the rust (Eastwood sells some - Metalprep I think is what I used last). Other times I have just sanded and primed.

If its not deep pits you can block it out with just primer. The epoxy first coat followed by a sandable primer works well. No wet sanding until final coat.

I dont have any hard data that shows that when I just sanded it came through vs if a metal prep was used. They all worked for me.

Do block sand it though, it will come out straight and smooth...
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-12-2015, 10:48 PM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,834
Default

I like picklex but it is expensive.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-12-2015, 11:26 PM
olds45512's Avatar
olds45512 olds45512 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 8,290
Default

first off its not wise to wet sand bare metal, not only does it cause rust but it doesn't leave enough scratch for primer as most companies recommend 220 grit minimum for primer. sandblasting is the best way to permanently remove rust followed by a quality epoxy primer, note that most companies recommend you wait 72 hours before putting body filler or primer over top of epoxy.
__________________
Tim
Pap's 100
Restored 108
1211 Dual Stick
1050
Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-13-2015, 01:53 PM
mjsoldcub mjsoldcub is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 656
Default

first re-scratch it with 220... then go get some 2k primer.. there are cans (you can tell by the activator plug that goes in the bottom) but they are rather expensive..most epoxy primers also have a recoat window..say: must cover within a certain time frame or it HAS to be scuffed again for any topcoat...do any mud work or spot putty over the 2k...then do a sandable or high build primer..this is where you might want to wetsand with 320.. then once youre good here squirt paint.... you can use something like rust-mort on that rust if you want.. as someone said before, its basically an acid that will turn the rust a blackish color and neutralize it, then do all the rest...
good luck!!!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.