My 982D build

[CTRUEX]

Hi everybody. I just wanted to show off some of my recent work, and make a build thread of my latest project. I haven't been a member for very long, but I have been a lurker for some time now, and thought I'd finally share my project with you fine people. As for me, my name is Cory and I am an industrial maintenance technician, at an aluminum die casting facility, owned by MTD. They are our parent, parent company, and I work on Buhler-Prince vertical squeeze cast machines that make a sunstrand look like a log splitter. Anyways, here it is:

I have been into these Cubs for a little while and have always wanted a diesel super. I almost got one a year ago, but the seller got cold feet and the sale fell through. Shortly after that I bought a 1512, and after correcting a few of the P.O.'s fixes, changing filters and fluids, and some basic maintenance things, I used it to mow the yard all last summer with the 50C deck it had come with. The non working hour meter read 12XX hours, and it came with an XMW 3 point, among some other goodies that were sold to offset the cost of the tractor.

A couple of months ago, I picked up an early 2082 for cheap. It had dropped a cylinder, and every piece of plastic was broken, but it had less than 500 hours and came with a 60" Haban deck. The solution became very clear to me, time for my 982D build, so it has begun.

So far, I have gone through most everything, and the plan is to build something that will last me 30+ years. I doubt it will see more than mowing duty, so I don't think that is too far of a stretch. I owe a lot to this forum, and to Sam Mac, who has helped me out with some good ideas through his posts, and with a few parts. I hope to have it done in the next couple of weekes, so I can move on to my 123 project.

I painted the frame with Rustoleum's tractor and implement enamel, and plan on using it for the tins, as well. It is still a little soft, after a few weeks, but I did a few coats. I did not take it down to bare steel, leaving the original paint as a primer. Some of the yellow is showing in a few pics, but that has been addressed.

The front axle was cleaned up, and since the 2082 had low hours, the bushings were in good shape. The heims were not, so they were replaced with some high strength PTFE lined rod ends, from McMaster-Carr. They aren't cheap, but they should last a while.

The orbital valve and cylinder were in great shape, so I extended the column and reused these items, as well. I extended the column with a drilled out 1/2" black pipe coupling, and TIG welded it to the stock valve and a cut-off shaft, donated by the 1512. It also donated a section of it's tube, and that was also TIG welded, using a section of 1.625 OD exhaust tube. I know the stock super's column is longer, but I made this to fit me, and this length is what I found to be the most comfortable.

The rear axle had a leaking seal, so I tore it down, and drilled the case, so the axles can drain back, gave it a thorough cleaning, inside and out, and replaced both axle seals, along with the axle, pump to case, and pump gaskets, as well as all O-rings. I still need a dipstick tube, since the GT's is too short, and the 2082's is too long. I installed it, along with Sam's/XMW's axle brace kit, and will be running a 2000 series driveshaft. Everything in the driveline will be brand new, and should last a little while. I'm still in need of the fan brace, since I don't like how much play is in the fan. Cub should have done this, but I suppose those few extra cents would break the bank. I have also attached the linkage, and have everything shimmed up and used the same PTFE lined ends for the rod. I will need to adjust it to find neutral, but other than that, it's ready.

The brakes got new springs and a very nice, non-riveted set of pads. I have them adjusted, and ready to go.

The tower was painted, and I used an NOS dash. I had to drill the third gauge hole, remove the diesel throttle plaque, and attach it to the new one. I also reused the gauge mount, and painted it the same color as what the engine will be painted, since the chrome was faded. The gauges were sourced from eBay, and can be found by searching for Farmall gauges. They are back lit, and I have used them in the past, with good success. I'm using a voltmeter, water temp, and oil pressure gauge, and I will be making my own wiring harness. For those with a sharp eye, I know the fuses shouldn't be there, and I'm not sure if I'll be using them in my custom harness, but I think it looks better with them there. I will also be using the 82 series steering wheel, with the IH cap, just not that one. I have one that's a tad nicer.

I went through the dual spool valve, replacing the O-rings, but I haven't decided to run it, or a Greene 3 spool valve, and add another cylinder for the rear lift. I can make my own hoses, and will be bending my own hard lines, so I am not limited by anything other than practicality and budget. The lift bar was originally for a super, I cut it down for the GT, and had to weld the cut-off piece back on, for those wondering why it looks like it does. Like I said, this tractor will be used primarily for mowing, but I built my Trac Vac for a Cat 0, and one day I might get a ZTR, so...

As I said, the engine will be painted a charcoal metallic color, and I will be replacing most of the accessories, gaskets, and seals. I already have most of the stuff, and will be doing the glow plug mod, and adding a gear reduction starter. I'm going to go ahead and bite the bullet and order all four motor mounts, since two of mine need replaced, unless someone has a cheaper alternative. I could not find any Kubota specific ones that looked similar. I also THINK I have found a new source for a BRAND NEW upper radiator hose, and will share the details, if it is a match. It looks just like the Cub NLA one! I haven't sourced the insulation yet, so I'm open to ideas. My lower hose is in great shape, since it was likely replaced when the coolant heater was installed, so I'll probably reuse that. The PTO is pretty much brand new, and cost me less than $60! So far, I haven't found anything alarming with the engine, but I haven't done a compression check yet. The rockers didn't require much adjustment, and nothing leads me to believe something is wrong or worn out internally, just some external things showing wear, a few leaks, and some hokey PO stuff like no thermostat and a zip tied air cleaner, due to a broken $8 mounting bracket, to name a few.

The fuel tank was cleaned up, and all bushings, shut-off valve, and gauge is new. I also bought a 25' roll of Goodyear 5/16" fuel hose from Summit Racing, so the fuel lines will be replaced, as well as all filters. I found a tank from a super, but the brackets were long gone, so I'm reusing everything from the 1512, and spacing it up with 1" x 1" square tubing. Is that right? I think it is just a 1" difference, but as I'm typing this, I am starting to wonder.

I plan on running Tru Powers and V61's, loaded and capped with some chrome non-IH hub caps I have. I also have a cool headlight upgrade to share, but not until I get the grill shell painted, assembled, and installed. I also have two sets of decals, one for a 1772, and one for a 982, and will see if a local shop can make my 982D hood decals, as well as a set of 982-4 hood decals, for a future project involving two Case 200 series axles I have.

Well, that's as far as I have got, and I will try to update regularly. I know I'll end up with a lot more money in this than what a 1572 costs, but mine will have the ball bearing axles, 2000 series driveline, red paint and IH emblems/decals, a few custom goodies, and most everything upgraded and/or new. I sold it to her by pricing a new comparable Greene, and then orange tractor. She decided it's better this way. I just hope it will last the 30+ years of mowing I am looking forward to.

Any questions, comments, advice, criticism?

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1388119047

[Cubcrazy]

You are making nice progress Cory! Looking forward to more pics and updates!

[Sam Mac]

Very COOL build! Wish I knew you were going to extend the steering column Woodward makes a coupling that fits the shaft for the valve.

[ken6x6]

very nice write up. keep us updated and good luck with the build!

[ACecil]

Great job on the build! Please keep the updates and pics coming!

[cubcadet]

nice progress, keep the pics coming

[_DX3_]

Sweet a Big Red Smoker No. 2 It's looking great.

I don't own the BRS anymore, but it is close by.

[CTRUEX]

Thanks guys, I'll do my best with updates. You did tell me about Woodward's coupler, Sam, but I had already drilled the black pipe, and thought I'd save $20. As you can see, I already spent that and some. I think that would be the way to go, along with exhaust band clamps, if a guy ever wanted to easily change the length, or swap out valves. DWayne, I've seen your 982D, and it was the inspiration for mine, along with another. I'd like to see a registry for the 982D, just to see how many there are out there. It's a shame they (CCC) never built one.

[CTRUEX]

Here are some fun facts that I've uncovered: not only were there a bunch of different tunnel covers for the wide and spread frame GT's, there are four different ones for the SGT's. Patton got me fixed up, so no worries there.
If I were to add a separate cylinder for the rear lift, how should I do it? I searched and found squat. Suggestions? I am thinking in frame, with a skinny wide frame cylinder. I'll have to check the cylinder's stroke. Also, am I right about the 1" fender height difference? Okay, you guys get me some answers as I get back to the bat cave. Thanks.

[_DX3_]

Can't wait to see it finished.