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#1
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Before I start tearing into this old implement, does anyone have any words of wisdom or caution for me? I'm planning on stripping it down, paint and replace the bearings. It's been outside for about 30 years. Thanks!
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#2
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Watch out because everything moves, and not usually together. I don't know how many times I get pinched fingers mounting my #2 to my 147.
Should be a fun resto.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#3
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I think someone on here did a detailed rebuild on here ?? You might do a search and see.
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#4
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I tore into my # 2 a year ago.....be prepared to use lots of PB Blaster and even heat to get the tines free and removed, when putting back together use . never sieze or an equivalent to keep things free ...
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#5
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Check out Sugarmaker's A-1 tiller rebuild.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=14944
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#6
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Thanks guys, I knew someone here could help. I'll check out the link.
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#7
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Steve,
The link Todd supplied was to a restoration I did a couple years ago. Time flies! If I can help let me know. PM me if you want. I used the electrolysis tank for most of the rust removal. A good sand blast cabinet would be great too. The lower bearing assembly was the toughest to get apart. I had lots of rusted and crud. I had to find some good used bearings in several places. As mentioned, you may have to use a torch to heat some of the items for diss-assembly too. You can't get the case apart until you have all the bearings from one side off the shafts, if I remember right. I cut out a new cork gasket for the chain/gear box covers. Good luck, it will be a challenging project. Take a lot of pictures. Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart. |
#8
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Chris, wow, that was some project! I'm stripping down my 105 this weekend and sandblasting the sheet metal parts. The paint I ordered yesterday should be in next week so I'm hoping to have the 105 back together in a couple of weeks. Rebuild PTO and new wiring harness. I'm doing the painting here at work so I'm hoping in the evenings I can start dis-assembly on the tiller at home. That gear case looks like its going to be the biggest booger. I definitely will be calling on you for some help! Thanks!
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#9
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Steve,
I think there is a cap or cover over the bolts that hold the bottom bearings in place. Both sides of the case. Those caps have to be pried or cut off, if really bad, so you can get to the bolts. I better go back and look at my own pictures to make sure. You have a lot on your plate with a 105 in process too! Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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