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Reload this Page 2182 Pivot Pin Holes on Front Axle Worn bad!
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Old 10-21-2014, 09:15 PM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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Default 2182 Pivot Pin Holes on Front Axle Worn bad!
The Pivot Pin Holes on the Front Axle are Worn bad! well there more like GONE.
My question is if I'm doing the repair right, I was going to hone the holes out to 1" and then cut some bushing stock and weld it in.... Is this the right way or is there a better way???
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:05 PM
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FrankF3 FrankF3 is offline
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What about replacing the crossmember from a donor tractor?
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:54 PM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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I would have to find one figured this would be a much beefier set up than they originally made.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:19 AM
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Calvins66Cub Calvins66Cub is offline
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As a machinist, I would bore it out, sleeve it with bearing-bronze, and reassemble with a stainless shaft. You could weld a short piece on either side to have more bearing surface. A grease zerk might be nice also.
please excuse my crude drawing...it's late.
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Old 10-22-2014, 11:22 AM
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riesedesperado6170 riesedesperado6170 is offline
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you can get new bushing to weld in from dealer I got some for my 1872 and welded them in worked great
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Old 10-22-2014, 11:29 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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I found some good bushing stock I had used for another project, going to cut it down to 3/4" pieces and weld it in each hole then grind it smooth on the inside. should hold better than factory original. use a 4.5" grade 8 bolt to replace the bolt I had to cut, new locking nylon nut, and BAM I hope lol.
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Old 10-22-2014, 04:12 PM
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I would use a bolt/shaft that is softer than the bushing or steel that is a pain to fix when it wears.
Replacing a softer shaft or bolt is way easier.
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Old 10-22-2014, 04:54 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calvins66Cub View Post
As a machinist, I would bore it out, sleeve it with bearing-bronze, and reassemble with a stainless shaft. You could weld a short piece on either side to have more bearing surface. A grease zerk might be nice also.
please excuse my crude drawing...it's late.
I agree, but the bolt or pivot shaft isn't supposed to rotate in the bolster. No need for bronze there. It's supposed to pivot in the axle. There is also supposed to already be a grease zerk in the axle. If the axle hole is "wallered" out, I agree with Calvins66Cub about using bronze in the axle. If the bolt is rotating in the bolster and wearing it out, I'd tack weld it in place to it can't rotate. The older machines the axle pivot pin was held in place with a roll pin so it couldn't rotate.
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Old 10-22-2014, 05:14 PM
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Well finished her up. Came out great i think. Used a 6.5" grade 8 bolt, (2) 1/2" / 1"od bushings. Cleaned it up welded in the new bushings, smoothed the inside up and reinstalled everything. Steering is great, no play at all now.
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Old 10-22-2014, 05:16 PM
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I know it could of been a little cleaner but i needed to have it running. I will be tearing her down this winter.
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