108 clutch information please

garnold · #1 09-22-2014, 08:51 AM

OK sorry for this silly question but I'm getting two different views on the parts that make up the 108 clutch. In the manual there is a spacer near the teaser spring and another with a zerk fitting on it that goes before the spring. On the parts tree image both of those parts are missing? I'm rebuilding my clutch and just want to make sure I do this correctly. Also, can I please confirm that the overall length of a drive shaft being used with a creeper is 14-5/8" long? Jeff is building a new driveshaft for me and just want to confirm these measurements. Thanks again!

sawdustdad · #2 09-22-2014, 08:58 AM

Check partstree.com for your model, there is a spacer and a teaser spring. The version with the zerk fitting is from a different (later?) model I think.

garnold · #3 09-22-2014, 09:08 AM

Parts Tree does not show those parts for my model but the manual does. I realize that the manual will cover multiple models but this part does not seem to be noted as not for my model. Since it goes in front of the spring I'm guessing it would effect the tension of the spring so I don't want to screw this up.

garnold · #4 09-22-2014, 09:11 AM

Just check another site and they also seem to have these two parts in a 108 clutch so I'm leaning to putting them in but would love to get some more feed back please. J-Tech your thoughts?

J-Mech · #5 09-22-2014, 09:54 AM

Looking at all the parts blow-outs for the different models, I'd say that you are looking at the wrong one for your machine. SDD (Frank) is correct. The pics you are looking at are for a new model.

That said, the main springs in all the tractors show the same part number. So do the thro-out bearings. If you want to install that bushing with the grease fitting, I don't see any reason why you can't. It's not a bad idea, and I don't think it will hurt. But..... keep in mind, new it around $50. A lot of machines out there don't have it. Not sure it's worth $50. AFAIC, it's your choice. I don't know that it matters one way or the other. Lew would know the length of the driveshaft with a creeper. Jeff also should. I do not know. I don't have any machines with a creeper to go measure.

Yosemite Sam · #6 09-22-2014, 11:44 AM

The exploded view that you posted is for a Quiet Line tractor and has been modified from the original version by the owner of the site that this illustration came from.

The correct length drive shaft for a 108 with a creeper is 14 1/2".

According to my research, some Wide Frame tractors (86, 108 and 128) came with the spacer and some did not (I'm guessing that somewhere during production there was a change, but I can find no information on when this change was made).

In any event, spacer/s or not, this does not affect the over-all length of the shaft, it does however change the location of the third hole in the shaft.

It is my opinion that you should, either send your old shaft to whoever is making the new one so that it can be duplicated (best option), or accurately measure the exact distance from center to center of the 2nd and 3rd holes and send this information to the maker.

Here is the link for the correct drive shaft/clutch exploded view for your machine (which is the exact same illustration that Cub Cadet uses on their parts site). http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0012400012

garnold · #7 09-22-2014, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

The exploded view that you posted is for a Quiet Line tractor and has been modified from the original version by the owner of the site that this illustration came from.

The correct length drive shaft for a 108 with a creeper is 14 1/2".

According to my research, some Wide Frame tractors (86, 108 and 128) came with the spacer and some did not (I'm guessing that somewhere during production there was a change, but I can find no information on when this change was made).

In any event, spacer/s or not, this does not affect the over-all length of the shaft, it does however change the location of the third hole in the shaft.

It is my opinion that you should, either send your old shaft to whoever is making the new one so that it can be duplicated (best option), or accurately measure from the front of the shaft to the exact center of the third hole.

Here is the link for the correct drive shaft/clutch exploded view for your machine (which is the exact same illustration that Cub Cadet uses on their parts site). http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0012400012

Sam can you please post that link you just mentioned. If it does not mater whether I use that spacer and other spacer with the zerk in it I will just leave them out and go with the items in the picture you are talking about. From the points you and J-Mech are making I should really be pretty safe without them and want to keep things as simple as I can

Thank you for your help!

darkminion_17 · #8 09-22-2014, 01:13 PM

Gene,
maybe this will help,
after the teaser spring goes the plate, clutch disc, plate

garnold · #9 09-22-2014, 01:56 PM

Thank you Lew. From your pic it looks like your release lever looks like mine but can you confirm that they should be bent like this on the end. Thank you.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3t...it?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3t...it?usp=sharing

darkminion_17 · #10 09-22-2014, 03:41 PM

Mine is the same way.