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  #1  
Old 08-30-2014, 01:39 PM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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Default Tire trouble

One of my 125's front tires has started to leak at the bead. What should I put on the tire to help it adhere to the rim better?

The tire is being run tubeless, as I and the two tire shops I went to couldn't successfully mount it without damaging the tube. It lasted 1 1/2 years before it started leaking. I figure if I break the bead and put something on it to help seal, it should remain trouble free.
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Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts.
family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub.
Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors!
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  #2  
Old 08-30-2014, 02:19 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Unless there is something sharp in the tire or the wheel is damaged in a way that punctures the tube, I can't imagine why you can't mount the tire with a tube in it.

For a tire without a tube, it depends on why it is leaking. I'm guessing that rust on the wheel, a bent spot in the wheel or a damaged tire bead are probably the most common reasons that a tire will leak at the bead.

Scaly rust should be cleaned from the bead area, but that will usually result in pits that will often times leak. Bent wheels can usually be straightened with a hammer and/or crescent wrenche/s .

On pitted wheels I use "bead sealer", sometimes it works on the first application and sometimes you have to break the tire down and try again. I've never known that slopping a whole lot on there at one time is the cure-all for a leaky tire.
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  #3  
Old 08-30-2014, 04:28 PM
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bolivier bolivier is offline
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You could always slime it....
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  #4  
Old 08-30-2014, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolivier View Post
You could always slime it....
That's what I'd do.
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2014, 02:12 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Anyone who has ever patched a tire knows "slime" is worthless. Its good for ruining tires and that's about it. If it only leaks on the bead, there is bead sealer. Its like liquid sticky rubber. BTW a tire shop that can't tube a tire without pinching the tube needs to find new "tire guys". I'd make them keep doing it till they got it right!!
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  #6  
Old 08-31-2014, 07:19 AM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
BTW a tire shop that can't tube a tire without pinching the tube needs to find new "tire guys". I'd make them keep doing it till they got it right!!
Amen to that! Find a shop that deals in a lot of medium to heavy trucks, farm and construction equipment. Those guys deal with all kinds of tubes all the time. Likewise they have brains enough to check the rim for any damage that will in turn damage the tube. We've got way too many tires around here to screw around with anything tubeless that won't hold air (unless it is an auto). Lawnmowers, UTVs, when they go flat we remove what caused the puncture and put in a tube. The hard part here is finding someone to fix a tire after 5 or on a weekend.
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  #7  
Old 08-31-2014, 07:38 AM
dbuck dbuck is offline
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Amen to J-Mech and Jon Hall posts. I personally do not do the tire work, I have a Buddy that does it by hand with tire tools and I have yet, seen him pinch/ruin a tube.
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  #8  
Old 08-31-2014, 08:01 AM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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I believe that rim has some sort of damage on the inside that rips the tube, I punctured it 3 times myself. I swung into a town fair tire with a new tube and they did the same, so I brought it to work with me, at the time I was working in a shop for tractor trailers, and gave it to the guy who does all their tire work. He went through 3 tubes on his own, then went tubeless. He didn't charge me for any of it, thankfully. I did think it was weird that I got one mounted with no trouble and no one could mount the other. I'll try some bead sealer, should be just what I need. Thanks for the input guys!
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Ian

Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts.
family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub.
Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors!
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  #9  
Old 08-31-2014, 12:17 PM
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red56turbo red56turbo is offline
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I stay away from the slime, too. Try cleaning up that crap out of the tire and rim if you ever wanna change the tire or paint to rim. What a mess. BTDT.
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2014, 11:38 AM
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DoubleO7 DoubleO7 is offline
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Take a rubber mallet and beat on the sidewall adjacent to the leak.
While inflated, three or four whacks.
I have fixed many a leaking bead tire that way, big and small.

You might have also managed to wedge a piece of wood between tire and bead.
Usually happens when you turn not quite soon enough and the tire scraps up against a hunk of wood or even a fence post, etc.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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