Cub Cadet 1000 engine removal???

rebel715 · #1 07-23-2014, 02:07 PM

I ordered new engine mounts and have "attempted" to install them. I have the engine bolts out and the old motor mounts out as well. I am having a problem separating the engine from the driveline. What procedure do you do to do this? I could not find it in the shop repair manual. All 4 of my bottom engine mounts were trashed, so I am presuming the other problem I am seeing is a clutch plate with a lot of chips from the outer edge. I would like to remove the engine from the driveline to replace the clutch disk and don't know how. It looks like a roll pin in the driveline on the front and back side of the clutch disk on each side of the plates. Do I drive these through with a punch? Thanks.

J-Mech · #2 07-23-2014, 02:54 PM

The engine just slides forward from the clutch. You don't remove the pins till the engine is out. If the motor won't slide forward, it is either "hanging up" on the worn clutch disk and drive pins (on the 3 pin driver, which stays on the engine) or the shaft is stuck in the pilot on the motor........ What I'm saying is, make sure it's not stuck on the clutch, then pull harder. It will slide forward.

Note: The 3 pin driver on a QL gear drive has a "flex disk" driver. It's part of the whole "anti-vibration" crap. Most of the time you will find this driver is broken. They show availability, but aren't cheap. This is why I recommend replacing the rubber mounts with solid ones, then switching the 3 pin driver to a standard one. Have fun!

rebel715 · #3 07-23-2014, 03:55 PM

I got it out. The cradle on the bottom of the engine was all the way forward and touching the frame not allowing the engine to "slide forward". I removed the 4 bolts on the flywheel that was holding the 3 pin pressure plate and was then able to remove the engine. Upon inspection, I found the back plate on the 3 pin assembly to be cracked and where the 4 bolts go through to bolt onto the engine, that center piece fell apart in 2 pieces. The friction disk is in poor shape, but the pressure plate and pressure locating plates seem to be fine. Do you suspect the cradle is on backwards? There has got to be an easier way to reassemble this!! I will look for parts, but in the mean time, I am without my cub.

J-Mech · #4 07-23-2014, 03:58 PM

I don't think it's possible to put the cradle in wrong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rebel715

Upon inspection, I found the back plate on the 3 pin assembly to be cracked and where the 4 bolts go through to bolt onto the engine, that center piece fell apart in 2 pieces.

Just like I said it would be.......

sawdustdad · #5 07-23-2014, 04:11 PM

Sometimes it's tough to get the three pins on the driver plate to pull out of the friction disk. But that's how it's supposed to come apart (and go back together). The three pin driver disk can stay on the engine. I usually unbolt the engine from the mounting rails, leaving the rails bolted to the frame, then just slide the engine forward. You'll need to jack up the front of the tractor and let the front axle pivot down on one side to give access to the engine oil pan, and then pivot down on the other side to get to that bolt. I use a special socket set (very short socket on a cranked handle) to reach these bolts. Once the engine is out, remove the motor rails. Re install in reverse order.

Texas Blues · #6 07-23-2014, 05:44 PM

It sounds like you didnt pull the bolts out of the oil pan (the four bolts that hold the engine to the cradle assembly). If those four bolts are out it should have slid forward. If you were trying to slide the whole cradle with the engine bolted to it, then yea, it dont move very far. TB

rebel715 · #7 07-23-2014, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas Blues

It sounds like you didnt pull the bolts out of the oil pan (the four bolts that hold the engine to the cradle assembly). If those four bolts are out it should have slid forward. If you were trying to slide the whole cradle with the engine bolted to it, then yea, it dont move very far. TB

My bad, that is what I did. I only unbolted the 4 bolts for the cradle, and it would not slide forward, so I unbolted the 4 bolts on the flywheel to enable me to get it out. At this point I have to save up to get about $200 for parts. I hate when you go to replace one thing and it just leads to "something else".

olds45512 · #8 07-23-2014, 09:21 PM

if it were mine id go with j mech's suggestion and put in solid motor mounts with a non flex driver. the vibration will be the same as the older solid mount cubs and you will probably never have to mess with it again, its also alot cheaper.

rebel715 · #9 07-24-2014, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

The engine just slides forward from the clutch. You don't remove the pins till the engine is out. If the motor won't slide forward, it is either "hanging up" on the worn clutch disk and drive pins (on the 3 pin driver, which stays on the engine) or the shaft is stuck in the pilot on the motor........ What I'm saying is, make sure it's not stuck on the clutch, then pull harder. It will slide forward.

Note: The 3 pin driver on a QL gear drive has a "flex disk" driver. It's part of the whole "anti-vibration" crap. Most of the time you will find this driver is broken. They show availability, but aren't cheap. This is why I recommend replacing the rubber mounts with solid ones, then switching the 3 pin driver to a standard one. Have fun!

So, since I am needing to replace the pressure plate assembly, you are recommending solid mounting the engine and the "standard" clutch assembly. Excuse me for not being too knowledgeable on these , as this is my first Cub, but what part numbers or for what tractor am I looking for. I don't want to have to go through this again.
Thanks!!!

sawdustdad · #10 07-24-2014, 07:09 AM

I think the 3-pin driver from any earlier model (e.g. 108, 128) would work fine if you solid mounted the engine.

see:
http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html

About half way down on this page, both the solid driver plate and the flex version for the 800/1000/1200 are listed (it incorrectly lists 1250/1450/1650 as well, but they don't use this part.)

Looks like the solid plate is $126 while the flex version is $120.

Of course, you can find these used for a lot less--either the for sale forum here, one of the other site sponsors, or on ebay.