1200 Engine Cradle Mount Question

[Texas Blues]

Howdy folks, I have a question about the engine cradle mounts. Should I assume that the mounts, both upper and lower should be the same height (except for the weight of the motor compressing the lower a little). In this pic of my flywheel in the lower right you can see the lower mount is alot shorter than the upper one, and I assume it is wore out. The other three are in similar shape. Can someone post a pic of some freshly installed mounts so I can see what it should look like? Thanks TB

[jimbob200521]

I don't have a pic handy but the bottom mounts are pretty worn out, though I've seen (and had) worse. The happy middle ground to replacing the mounts, since they are $20 a corner for new ones, is re-use the upper mounts. Purchase 2 sets of new mounts, use the new on the bottom and leave the uppers original. Cuts your cost in half

[Mr.Goffena]

Here is a pic of a set of NOS old style mounts that I installed in my 1250

[Mr.Goffena]

I would also do this while it is out.

[Alvy]

X2. Cradle mod is well worth the time and effort

[bkw3614]

There are all kinds of theories on motor mounts for a Quietline; the tractor family of which your 1200 belongs.

Two years ago, I bought a 1250 that had motor mounts that looked like sponges. I decided to take out the engine and fix the problem, and thus, my tractor earned its name, the 1250 Nightmare!

First, pull the engine. Take your engine cradle and do this: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4630
I am told that this modification suggested will go a long way to fixing motor mount problems.

When you are ready to replace the cradle, I would recommend getting the factory correct mount kit. They are about 20-25 dollars a corner, and look nothing like the photos shown. This isn't the place to scrimp on after-market will-fit parts. Install the mounts on the engine cradle as shown in the kit instructions. When I replaced my mounts, I also used new bolts, washers and lock nuts from Caterpillar. The instruction sheet will tell you to tighten the mount bolt to 100 inch-pounds of torque. Don't do that. It was recommended in this forum, as well as in other places to tighten the bolts using lock nuts to one to two threads showing. I then set the engine into the cradle and bolted it into place using new grade 8 bolts and lock washers from Caterpillar. When the engine was placed on the cradle and bolted into place, the mount bolts turned in their holes and the engine vibration was terrible. The bolts were too loose.

To fix this, I started tightening the motor mount bolts one turn at a time, then driving the tractor for a bit to gauge if there was any improvement. It took several weeks of tighten and drive, tighten and drive, and loosen and drive adjustments to get the mounts to dampen the vibration to my liking. I think it performs pretty well after this experimentation.

Be patient. This takes awhile. One member of this forum suggested that the mounts need to wear in a bit before they really do their job,and that makes sense to me. Another suggested that over-tightening the mount will collapse it. I don't know. After the 100 inch-pound mistake, I threw those two mounts away and replaced them once again so that all four corners were new. As this summer progresses, I will re-adjust the mounts again to see if there will be any improvement or regression.

While you have the engine out of the tractor, may I suggest that you tighten your front axle yoke and rebuild your steering sector. This is easily done when the engine isn't in the way.

The Quietline is a great tractor series. I think they were the best of the IH Cub Cadets. I hope you enjoy your 1200 as much as I enjoy my 1250, even though it is the 1250 Nightmare!

[J-Mech]

All this talk about motor mounts and the "terrible nightmare" that everyone seems to have with them. Along with the $100 price tag. They are the only tractor series that had them. I just don't understand why you guys don't just go with the solid motor mounts and be done with it. They don't shake any more than any other K series motor'd tractor. I say, spend $40 on set of solid mounts and forget about it. Just my

[cubby102]

How would the solid mounts effect the rattles of the sheet metal? Ive got a 1200 and 1450 needing mounts both are fairly smooth at wot. But will shake your teeth out at any mid range setting

[Mr.Goffena]

Yes the photo I posted is nothing like the replacement mounts. Thats because they are original IH cub cadet mounts. From what I have read the original mounts are softer than the replacement mounts. I will say that my 1250 vibrates so much less than my 129 its just not even funny. I would take the 1250 over the 129 anyday for most jobs. As for pulling a plow I think I would use the 129.

[dvogtvpe]

really? who cares about a little shake. all the K singles shake. bigger they are the more they shake. common single cyl issue. live with it. when you mow you should be at WOT. that's where they were intended to run at. blade speed, cooling are all based off of WOT. they don't shake bad there, idle and part throttle are the worst. the vibration is why they started putting twins in them. mainly because the new generations being born couldn't deal with a little vibration. would you rather ride a Harley or one of the other girlie brand of bikes? If you don't like the shake get a tractor with a twin and buy a skirt to wear when you mow. nuff said. I'm starting to get the feeling there are to many republican and democrat white collar workers that are cross dressers on this site. not that there's anything wrong with that. to each his own. Well, that's my little attempt at humor this morning.