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#1
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Hello everyone, this is my first post--but have used this site a LOT over the winter to help me and my son (he's 13) as we're rebuilding a hot mess of a 149. Here's the issue: it won't charge the battery. Here are the details: Bought a new battery, replaced the spark plug, checked all of the connections, etc. The old starter motor was having a difficult time turning over and the tractor would only run for about 10 minutes and then die slowly. I'd jump it and it would run, again, for a couple of minutes and then die. It got to the point where it wouldn't even start--turn the key and nothing. No clicking, nothing. Replaced the starter/generator last week, hooked everything up and the same thing happens. The multimeter reading with the tractor off says the battery has about 10.8v. When I turn the key the reading dips to about 1.4v (the starter doesn't turn or click) turn it back off and the reading goes back to about 10v. When I jump the tractor it's at about 13.8v--take the cables off and about 2 minutes later we're back to dead battery. I've inspected the wiring it all looks fine. I haven't messed with the VR or coil. I'm stumped. We're fixing this tractor so that my son can start a business cutting grass for the neighbors. Grass is growin' clients are callin' we're not mowin'. Thanks in advance for the help fellas!
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#2
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Welcome to OCC. You say that when you jump the tractor you have 13.8 volts but is that with the jump box connected? What is your voltage reading on the battery with the tractor running by itself? Charging should yield over 13 volts.
If not go here and follow procedure http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#3
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Hey Alvy...the 13.8 is with the jump box connected. The reading while the tractor is running on its own--for the minute or so it runs...goes down steadily from 13.8v down to 1.4 and then the tractor dies.
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#4
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Alvy--thanks so much for the link and the fast response to my post. I wrote back and clicked on the link before I said, "thanks." Sorry about that! I've got today to figure this thing out and get it up and running. Thanks again for the fast reply and the link. I'll go through all of that and let you know what I find out. Got a laugh about the colors of the wires though--all of mine seem to be a washed out dusty white color. LMAO.
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#5
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Here is some more info for you to check out.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#6
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OK, so I checked the link that you sent, Alvy--thanks again for that. I've confirmed that things are grounded properly and tested for good continuity (three times per wire, on the three settings for Ohms on the multimeter)...and both wires show bad continuity--or a reading of 1 with the multimeter set on ohms. This doesn't make sense--how could both wires be bad and the tractor still start and even run for a while if both wires going from the S/G to the VR (Bat and Gen terminals--and F and A terminals) are showing poor continuity? Sorry to be dense...this is my first rebuild and my 9th grade science class on electricity is a dim memory. As a fix, can I hook back up the leads from the S/G and the VR and just run an additional two 14 gauge wires from the S/G to the VR and hook those two extra wires in? Or, would that screw up the whole system? Thanks for any help.
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#7
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Thanks so much, Sam...I'll check these out now. I've got a 3-post VR (Bat, Gen, and F)...but the wire that was attached to the Bat post "seems" to be yellow (as best I can make it out), not grey as in the diagram. Would that make any difference? Thanks again for the links.
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#8
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OK--gaining on it...thanks to the diagrams from Sam for the VR and wiring, I've tested both wires and have good continuity for both. Not sure what I was doing wrong, but have eliminated a break in the wiring which is good. Now to test the VR and S/G. Am thinking it must be the VR because the S/G is brand new as of last week...but will test using the link from Alvy. Thanks again.
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#9
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Welcome to OCC! Good luck with your 149.
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
#10
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Thanks everyone...I managed to find a brand new voltage regulator yesterday, installed it and it worked great. I was able to mow for about 15 minutes and everything seemed like it was going fine. Then the engine started to idle very rough and eventually died. When I looked at the MM the reading was at 10.8v. I jumped the tractor again (13.8v on the MM while jumping) and it ran for another couple of minutes. Now won't start. No clicking, nothing. 10v on the MM. Any thoughts? Any help would be great and thanks in advance.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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