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#1
03-23-2014, 09:42 PM
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Automatic trany fluid vs hydro oil
I drained the hydro oil out of my 123 because I had a leak and over the winter, I don't know if it leaked all out or froze. When I drained it, it was all milky and yellow which the oil i put in it was not that way. I have the same stuff in my log splitter and it looks nothing like that looks just like when i put it in whats causing this. Would I be better off to run ATF that is what is in my 127 and I never have a problem?
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#2
03-23-2014, 10:12 PM
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this was just changed out last winter how am i getting water in to it
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#3
03-23-2014, 10:28 PM
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Hy Tran is hydroscopic which means it encapsulates moisture. Hy Tran is what the hydros were designed for. If you can't afford Hy Tran, at least get something that specs outs similar to the Hy Tran specifications.
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#4
03-23-2014, 10:39 PM
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http://www.ruralking.com/super-s-sup...llons-tdh.html
this is what i had in it and have in my log splitter |
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#5
03-23-2014, 10:42 PM
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Here's what I've been using ( purchased at TSC )
  click for bigger pics Check your container to see if it specs for Hy Tran |
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#6
03-24-2014, 12:22 AM
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dose it do the same thing with water as the HyTran
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#7
03-24-2014, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Jeff is correct in saying that Hy-Tran is the recommended fluid from IH or CCC. I don't run it. ATF (specifically Dexron III) is an acceptable substitute. This is a topic that we  on the forum all the time. Most of us get tired of the debate. There are too many people on here running "other than" oils with no problems. As a mechanic, and as a former IH mechanic, I can tell you the oil Jeff listed is fine, Dexron III is fine, any 30wt (or close I.E: SAE 32) is fine. I even know of a guy who runs 30WT Rotella in his rear with no issues. It really isn't very critical at all, as long as it is a oil that is meant for a piston style pump. 
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#8
03-24-2014, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
 My 149 and 127 started with Hy-Tran I will continue to use Hy-Tran and the CC hydra filter. You can buy Hy-Tran at your local Case/IH dealer in bulk and save some money. 
__________________
Don B, USAF 1962-1968, Ft. Wayne, IN |
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#9
03-24-2014, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#10
03-24-2014, 08:58 AM
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Something you might be running into is condensation.
On larger, (think vintage ag tractors) when you operate them, the gear box's get warm and the air vent allows the expanded air to escape. When they cool off air re enters via the vent or other areas. Air has moisture. On a wet/damp day go look @ a crankcase/gear case and you will see "sweat" That is on the inside too. Every year I drain off water/condensation from the bottom of my collector RED and Green tractors via the bottom drain plugs. Most times it is about a QUART from the 15 or so gallon gear reservoirs. These tractors are inside an unheated building and some are not run/used for several years @ a time. It is the nature of things. Gear cases almost never get hot enough to boil off the condensation unlike an engine that does. I doubt an arid place like Arizona/or desert would have much of a problem, but that is not the case in high humidity areas. --Just my two cents. |
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