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#1
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Guys
I need some advice on painting. The last couple days I started to paint the fenders for a 1641. I wet sanded the powder coat, primed it with Rustolium rusty metal primer and sprayed it with Valspar Cub Yellow. No problems so far. This AM when I got it in better light I noticed that I had a couple areas that needed another coat for good coverage so I started to spray another coat, this is when it went bad. The paint started to wrinkle. I stopped and let it sit, later in the day I wet sanded the whole thing. Now do I need to re prime it or can I just hit it again with the Yellow? Thanks in advance. Sam
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#2
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Have you ever: used the Rustoleum over powder coat, layed Valspar over Rustoleum?
I'm thinking one of the paints isn't compatible. I've had paint do that when I mixed brands. I don't know that you need to re-prime, but you may need to put a non-bare metal primer over the rusty metal primer. Does the Rustoleum seem to be well bonded? |
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#3
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I've use Valspar over Rustolium rusty metal primer many times with no issue this was Valspar over Valspar. Most of my stuff is rusty to start, gives the primer something to bite on LMAO
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#4
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Hmmmm. Are you using cans? Or a paint gun?
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#5
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Cans, I think what happened is that what I put on yesterday had setup on the surface but the new coat I put on today started to dissolve the first coat and caused the wrinkles.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#6
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That is possible. May just have gotten a bad can too. You know how factory's are
I think I'd just try shooting it again. If if does it again, try wet sanding between coats.
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#7
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Got it done. Misted a light coat on, let it tack up, then another light coat, let that flash and then two heavier coats. Came out nice.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#8
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We had some metal parts at work they painted that were originally powder coated and the paint did the same thing,we ended up having to take it to bare metal then paint. If it were mine and not rusty I would lightly sand it then shoot it skipping the primer,least where the paint is good.
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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#9
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#10
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maybe this thread is dead, but i was just reading, and if anybody wondering; often times most enamels will have a minimum re-coating time..say " do not recoat for 48-72hrs" if last coat has dried for a certain period of time. it is exactly what you thought sam mac...this is called alagation or alligator..previous coat may not seem wet, and even dry, although uncured, and as the coat on top starts to cure, it reacts and shrinks..enamels take along time to cure as opposed to uerethanes, laquers and such...when working with enamels i tend to do all my top coating in one day...im no expert, but have been "squirting" for about 15yrs..if this helps at all.
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