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#1
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Anyone know of a "smarter, not harder" way to get these off so I can replace the bad seals? They're putting up quite a fight!!
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#2
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A socket on a rachet. I have an old 1/2" torque wrench that is broken that works great as a long breaker bar. Then take it the rest of the way off with the standard 1/2" rachet.
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#3
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Might need to go spend some $$$ on the right size socket. Think I read on here it's 1 1/8"
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#4
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Socket and a good 1/2" impact wrench
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#5
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1 1/16" socket... No impact required for either of my 44A's.
I didn't put it in my write up because it doesn't add anything to it, but I lost the key when I swapped mine and had to gut my rusty 44A to get its key... Did 'em both the same way. I believe the problem you're having is that you just can't develop any torque with vice grips. http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showp...3&postcount=14 |
#6
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Big sockets and soak it with penetrating oil. Its like a 1 1/16 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 I had to use a 3/4 drive to get mine apart and no they don't like coming apart. Patience and soak it good. Good luck!
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake! ![]() |
#7
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Hey, thanks guys, I think I realize what I did wrong. I was trying to use a wrench on the pulley and a socket on top, but the wrench was too thick and would not allow me to fit the socket on deep enough which is why I switched to the thinner vice grips. I think I need to put the blade back on so that I can ditch the wrench and use the 2x4 to hold the pulley in place.
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#8
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I'm only making a huge deal about this because not everyone has enough coin to buy 4 sockets to try 'em out (much like myself). So... to the OP, if you want to go get the appropriate tool for the job, you need a 1 1/16" socket. I believe Autozone will "rent" you a 3/4" drive set with that size for free, as long as you take it back. It sounds like you probably have the right tools, just the wrong approach. Yep, put the blade back on and slap a chunk of wood in there... Even my rusty as all hell 44A came apart smooth with nothing more than 50ft-lbs. Good luck! |
#9
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Man, I'm still struggling with this darn deck! I put the blades back on, torqued 'em down, put a block of wood in front of the blade and tried to get the nut off with a socket and breaker bar... The blade starts spinning on the spindle shaft before the nut will break loose!! Even with it torqued down!
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#10
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Make sure the socket isn't engaging the hex on the pulley. Use an impact! If you don't have one, throw it in the back of your truck and take it to a mechanic shop, hand them $10 to take it off.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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