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  #1  
Old 06-23-2013, 10:51 PM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: IA
Posts: 148
Default 1200 No spark!! FRUSTRATED!!!

Hello all!!

Been doing a "refresh" to say on a 1200. Gonna tell you all the story first.
Got it for free with a bad 3 pin driver and throw out in pieces.
Pulled motor, clutch and had new throw out installed and bought a used but good condition 3 pin driver. In process I have done the following.
New Battery
New Battery Cables
New Grounding Locatons
New Silly-noid
New Ignition Coil- relocated to under dash
New Condenser
New Points
New Ignition Switch
New Head Gasket
New Head Bolts
New Solid Motor Mounts On Order
Rebuilt Carb
New Air Filter
New Rear End Fluid and Gasket
Repainted Deck
Sharpened Blades
New Mule Drive Belt
New Deck Drive Belt

Now I am putting everything back together, no motor mounts and rear end not hooked up yet.

Looked, looked, looked, read, read, read, checked and double, triple, quadruple checked the wiring diagram on here and now.........

NO SPARK!!!
FYI I did have this tractor running and deck pto working before all the work was done so I know it was a good unit before just bad clutch.

I dont know where to look. Any wires I have cut were to replace a bad spot or make a wire longer. Have checked all connections. Turns over awesome!!! Tryed old igniton coil. No luck. I have a test light but no anameter. One place that does not seem to have any power is the + wire off of the ignition coil.

Now I guess I have a dumb question. On new Points, is there some kind of coating on the contacts? I did not scuff them as I figured new were all good. Should I try that?

Guys this has me baffled!!! My current mower is getting close to her life ending. Its a "newer" style but it was free also. I want my CUB and I want her NOW!!! Hahahah. Im pouting writing this. Im just really frustrated. Well I am really something else but I know we dont use those bad words here. HEHEH!!

Any help would be awesome. I just want to get my motor mounts in when they get here, hook up rear end, put grill on, put mule drive on, put mower deck on and mow with her!!!

Thanks guys.
John

I think im gonna cry now... and i cant find any cryin smileys...
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2013, 11:25 PM
Shaner Shaner is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 718
Default

yes there is kinda an oily substance on the points when they are new. give them a buff with a nail file or light grit sand paper. also make sure they are gapped correctly! and also make sure the wire that connects to the points is making good contact. sounds like a points issue.
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  #3  
Old 06-23-2013, 11:31 PM
CADplans's Avatar
CADplans CADplans is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: VA
Posts: 3,504
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The last step after burnishing the points with 400 or finer grit paper, I wipe them down by dragging a dollar bill between the closed points.

It is it only use I can find for a single dollar, anymore!!

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  #4  
Old 06-23-2013, 11:36 PM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: IA
Posts: 148
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Ok fellers.. Sounds like a plan. I tryed a finger nail file a few minutes ago after reading and researching many other posts.

Can someone explain exactly how to gap these suckers? Im not sure I know how. I will explain how I did it.

I turned crank by hand untill points were fully pushed out loose. Used a .018 feeler gauge to gap and tightened them back up. This right or WAY wrong?

Thanks!!!
John
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  #5  
Old 06-23-2013, 11:43 PM
Shaner Shaner is offline
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Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 718
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sounds about right. if they are gapped right, you should see a little blue spark in the points when they are moving back and forth. then check to see if you have spark at the plug, if not, your problem lies elsewhere. but the points is a base point to track down a spark issue.
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  #6  
Old 06-24-2013, 12:00 AM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Location: USA
Posts: 2,627
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I've experienced "no spark" with new points with everything else correct. A wipe with fine sandpaper and "Voila!" Spark!

If that's not it, make sure you have 12V+ at the positive side of the coil (the side NOT connected to the points and condenser) with the ignition switch "on." If not, run a jumper from the battery "+" to the "+" side of the coil. Another check is to verify continuity from the "-" side of the coil to engine ground when the points are closed. Assume the rest of your starting circuit works as you said it turns over.
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  #7  
Old 06-24-2013, 12:29 AM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Location: IA
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ok. Ive filed/sanded new and old points trying them both. regaping them both. tryed old coil and old condenser. Nothing. even tryed with lights out in garage to see if spark was even a light one. nope. i dont get it. all parts are new. new coil. new condenser. new points. maybe i havent filed them enough? i dont know but i even tryed the old ones with old point gap and regapping. nothing there either. maybe i will tinker with it more tomarrow if its not to hot.

im dumb founded. could the rectifyer have anything to do with it? everywhere i try with a test light seems to have power to everything that should have power. i dont have a meter though.

thanks all. appreciate it!!!

John
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  #8  
Old 06-24-2013, 12:33 AM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: IA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
I've experienced "no spark" with new points with everything else correct. A wipe with fine sandpaper and "Voila!" Spark!

If that's not it, make sure you have 12V+ at the positive side of the coil (the side NOT connected to the points and condenser) with the ignition switch "on." If not, run a jumper from the battery "+" to the "+" side of the coil. Another check is to verify continuity from the "-" side of the coil to engine ground when the points are closed. Assume the rest of your starting circuit works as you said it turns over.
sawdustdad.. ive read and read your post. i think i understand what you are saying. i will give it a try. will running a jumper short out coil or condenser at all? just wondering. and can that jumper be left "in the circut" permanetly if it works?

thanks
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  #9  
Old 06-24-2013, 12:42 AM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Location: IA
Posts: 148
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im sorry. i ment to say voltage regulator.. that cause any problems?
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  #10  
Old 06-24-2013, 01:06 AM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: IA
Posts: 148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
I've experienced "no spark" with new points with everything else correct. A wipe with fine sandpaper and "Voila!" Spark!

If that's not it, make sure you have 12V+ at the positive side of the coil (the side NOT connected to the points and condenser) with the ignition switch "on." If not, run a jumper from the battery "+" to the "+" side of the coil. Another check is to verify continuity from the "-" side of the coil to engine ground when the points are closed. Assume the rest of your starting circuit works as you said it turns over.
Sawdustdad.... It was eating me up soooo BAD I had to go try your jumper. AND!!!! IT WORKED!!!!! It has GOOOOOD spark and even with out motor mounts in I got it running. I dont know where the problem lays but you know what? Im gonna put that jumper in perminatly. Dont know if it will cause problems or not but you know what I gotta have a runner when the rest of the parts come in.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU SAWDUSTDAD!!! AND EVERYONE ELSE ALSO!!!! YOU GUYS MAKE OCC THE BEST!!!

All the tricks and info I get from you all will not be forgotten!!!!!
HAND SHAKES TO ALL OF YOU AND HIGH FIVES!!!

THANKS AGAIN!!!
John
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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