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#1
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Was taking my daughters for a spin around the property when all of a sudden we stopped moving. I had it in gear but we just stayed in place. Me the frantic worrier thought the the transmition blew up or something hard for a new guy like me to fix. Turned out I just had a flat
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#2
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You should be able to buy whatever tread pattern you like in the proper size for your rims. Just buy the same size as what is on it now.
As far as what to get, I personally like ribbed fronts and turf rears for mowing/tooling around. The ribbed fronts are easier to turn and will let the front end slide a little w/o damaging the grass much if you're in a situation where you're pushing the front end instead of steering the front end. ![]() I've found used Cub wheels and tires so cheaply on craigslist, ePay, etc that I've never bothered to buy "new" tires. I have 2 sets of rear turfs, 3 sets of front ribs (I think they're all 5 rib?), and 1 set of rear Ags. The Ags are nice if you are plowing or running in the mud. I'd like to get chains to run on my permanently. Other food for thought, get some new front wheel bearings while you're in there. I have go cart bearings in the front of my 1650 and they work just fine and are WAY cheaper than cub bearings (I think they were like $3 or $4/ea?). |
#3
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#4
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www.gokartgalaxy.com
#8273 - $6/ea... (3/4" ID, 1 3'8" OD, double sealed and flanged) It's important on Cubs to monitor the health of the front wheel bearings. If the bearings fail they will start eating into the bore of the rim and the spindle. My 1650 was so bad it required new rims and spindles to repair it correctly. My 149's wheels fit the bearings "loose" (slip fit instead of press), but they were OK and the spindles were alright. I think I paid $175 for 2 brand new front wheels for it (at the time it was my only tractor, so I didn't have time to deal hunt)... $24 of new bearings every few years is WAY better! ![]() I did also buy a pair of official-new-in-bag Cub Cadet branded wheel bearings and didn't notice any remarkable difference in quality between the two. |
#5
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I've always had good results from Miller Tire (millertire.com). They have a great selection at reasonable prices. Shipping is quick. I like the Turf tires in front and rear.
What size tires do you have in front, wide or narrow? The nice thing is that you can pick a size and the page will show you what is avaiolable in that size. They sell new front wheels (which I didn't know). I, too, had bought used wheels and tires off fleabay, but if I wanted to save money in the long run, I would have bought new front wheels and tires. I have spent hours cleaning up old wheels, fixing flats, fixing flats, fixing flats,...you get the drift. The back wheels are not so bad. I suggest using tubes in the front wheels (I also run tubes in back). I have done both and 90% of my flats were with tubeless tires. Put tubes in them, no problems.
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John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
#6
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Thank you for this information. So how are you folks actually changing your tires? Is this something that a weekend warrior can do or do I need to take everything to a garage with tools that change car tires?
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#7
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I take mine to a local garage who charges me $10 to put on or take off 2 tires. They tell me that the cub wheels aren't so bad, but please don't bring them ATV rims and tires! They hate those. Many people can break the safelty bead down with theior own equipment. It is easier for me to take it somewhere.
Plus I wirebrush my wheels inside and paint them. It makes it easier on the tiremen. Advice: ask the price before you drop them off. Ask me how I know.
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
#8
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Agreed. I love Miller tire. I also take mine to a garage to have them mounted.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#9
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I kind of felt that the garage would be the best case. Miller seems pretty darn expensive. I'm seeing prices like $170+ per rear tire on there. Am I just looking in the wrong place? I need 23 x 8.50 - 12 rears and they seem really expensive. Can I get some help with links to others or is that just the price?
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#10
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Google 23x850x12 tires and see what comes up. Sears is slightly cheaper at $77.00 per tire. I don't know if there is any shipping. Tires are a LOT MORE EXPENSIVE than even last year. THe last set off new tires I bought 20 years ago, so they do last. I have bought used tires off fleabay, but then you are taking a chance.
And if Sears would mount them for free, you'd have something.
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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