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  #1  
Old 01-08-2013, 04:15 PM
fleetlines's Avatar
fleetlines fleetlines is offline
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Default Starting Cold Hydro's

I've got a 1650 that just don't like the cold. This morning it was 22 degrees F and though it would try, it didn't start. It likely would have if I kept trying but I thought I'd wait till it warmed up more. When it hit 36 degrees it did finally start. I have this tractor set up with a cab and thrower on it so I want to use it this winter. We had a cold snap for about a week and it wouldn't start until it warmed up. The old 72 with a snow blade was called into service and did well with about 8 inches of wet, heavy snow. I figured I had a drop of water in the fuel line or carb plugging up the flow since it would run manually adding the fuel through the air intake. It did not even try running off the tanks fuel that week. I've been using it fairly regular since mid summer and I rebuilt the carb last fall. I have new HyTran in it. I have a warm place for it but I'd like to work on other cubs there. Anyone know why they are hard to start when it's cold out?
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Original, Serial #44578, K161S Serial #659144, 3pt. w/ Spring Assist, Deck, Fenders, Lights
72, Serial #231093, K161S Serial #C281773, 36" deck
149 & Original Yard art
1650, Serial #2050067U559932*, K341 Serial #7133367, 3 pt. hitch
1650, Serial #2050670U601762*, K341 Serial #7584702 SIM cab, 50" deck, tires loaded & weighted
123 FEL and weight box
10" & 12" Brinley Plow, Decks, Roller, Cart, Power angle blade, dozer blade, Snow Thrower, Airator, Tiller
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2013, 04:57 PM
restore49 restore49 is offline
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spark plug - condenser - coil - points -timing.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2013, 04:58 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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When you say it won't start, I assume you mean it will turn over smartly, but not fire. I've never had trouble starting my cub in cold weather. With a good battery, good fuel and a clean air filter, there isn't much else needed. Of course, your timing, coil, points and condenser all need to be in decent shape. It's not like it's a diesel. I'd suspect things like water in the fuel line (as you've speculated), weak battery (or poor connections to it), bad coil/condenser, marginal gap on the points. First and foremost, make sure the battery is fully charged. If it's turning over quickly, then fuel is the next place to look.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:05 PM
Muzzy Muzzy is offline
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The grade of oil, cold oil and hydro fluid have alot to do with it too. I generally have to jump mine when it's cold.
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2013, 05:49 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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Poor battery, poor grounds, poor grade of fuel, wrong choice of oil grade, the fact it's a hydrostat, and a handful of other things could be the culprit.
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2013, 06:08 PM
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fleetlines fleetlines is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by restore49 View Post
spark plug - condenser - coil - points -timing.
I have newer plug, condenser, coil, and points in it. All about 6 months old. I suppose something could have gone bad in that time. I set the timing myself static method and checked with light. That was spot on. When it's not cold it fires up great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
When you say it won't start, I assume you mean it will turn over smartly, but not fire. I've never had trouble starting my cub in cold weather. With a good battery, good fuel and a clean air filter, there isn't much else needed. Of course, your timing, coil, points and condenser all need to be in decent shape. It's not like it's a diesel. I'd suspect things like water in the fuel line (as you've speculated), weak battery (or poor connections to it), bad coil/condenser, marginal gap on the points. First and foremost, make sure the battery is fully charged. If it's turning over quickly, then fuel is the next place to look.
It turned slower when cold but still fast enough that it should have fired or at least even sputtered. That was last week when it was colder. It did run out of gas that night and I left it sit outside overnight but the next day I couldn't get anything out of it. I'm fairly certain I had a bit of ice that week in the fuel line or carb somewhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzzy View Post
The grade of oil, cold oil and hydro fluid have alot to do with it too. I generally have to jump mine when it's cold.
I do have cheap 10W-30 in it now. Also fresh (6 moths +/-) Hy-Tran.

The air filter is kinda sad but it wasn't even on that week when I was messing with it. I did blow some carbon with a backfire but I figured that came from the muffler. (head decarboned 6 mo. ago also) I had concerns about the head gasket 6 mo. ago but when put back together it fired up right away so I thought it was fine. I suppose I just need to go through it all again. This is my second 1650. One's been out of service a little while but it had trouble last winter also. I appreciate the input guys.
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Original, Serial #44578, K161S Serial #659144, 3pt. w/ Spring Assist, Deck, Fenders, Lights
72, Serial #231093, K161S Serial #C281773, 36" deck
149 & Original Yard art
1650, Serial #2050067U559932*, K341 Serial #7133367, 3 pt. hitch
1650, Serial #2050670U601762*, K341 Serial #7584702 SIM cab, 50" deck, tires loaded & weighted
123 FEL and weight box
10" & 12" Brinley Plow, Decks, Roller, Cart, Power angle blade, dozer blade, Snow Thrower, Airator, Tiller
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2013, 06:40 PM
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cmatthew cmatthew is offline
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valve gaps too
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402c Sickle Bar, 48" Mower Deck
QA42A Snow Thrower, 42'' Push Blade
IH Back Blade and Rake
Brinly Seeder/Aerator
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Brinly 10" Moldboard,Brinly Cultivator, Brinly Disc
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2013, 06:48 PM
cuber cuber is offline
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What type of gas are you using? I personally don't use any gas that has ethanol in it unless I have to. I add SEA FOAM to all of my gas engines. Sea Foam and other gas additives will remove water/moisture from the gas and also clean the carb, intake, and combustion chamber as well. I highly recommend using SEA FOAM!!!! just my two cents

Does your 1650 have the manual hydro dump valves? If it does it will have the release lever flopper handle on the side of the tunnel cover. If your lever is in working condition you can hold it up and release the valves while your cranking/starting the engine. This will put a lot less strain on the starter and it will make the engine turn over faster. It works but it is hard to hold the lever and turn the key and run the choke and throttle all at the same time to start the engine, almost need a third hand but it does work.
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  #9  
Old 01-08-2013, 06:59 PM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetlines View Post
I have newer plug, condenser, coil, and points in it. All about 6 months old. I suppose something could have gone bad in that time. I set the timing myself static method and checked with light. That was spot on. When it's not cold it fires up great.


It turned slower when cold but still fast enough that it should have fired or at least even sputtered. That was last week when it was colder. It did run out of gas that night and I left it sit outside overnight but the next day I couldn't get anything out of it. I'm fairly certain I had a bit of ice that week in the fuel line or carb somewhere.


I do have cheap 10W-30 in it now. Also fresh (6 moths +/-) Hy-Tran.

The air filter is kinda sad but it wasn't even on that week when I was messing with it. I did blow some carbon with a backfire but I figured that came from the muffler. (head decarboned 6 mo. ago also) I had concerns about the head gasket 6 mo. ago but when put back together it fired up right away so I thought it was fine. I suppose I just need to go through it all again. This is my second 1650. One's been out of service a little while but it had trouble last winter also. I appreciate the input guys.
'ppears to me, from your first post, all you need to do is drain your fuel system and put in some uncontaminated gas.
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  #10  
Old 01-08-2013, 07:06 PM
wshytle wshytle is offline
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Default 1650 starting issues

Have you considered a magnetic heater for the rearend to keep the fluid warm? I'm from the south but have read about a lot of guys in the colder states doing this for easier starts. Heck, I don't even change grades of oil for the winter here...don't need to. I do run high test fuel with MMO and it seems to help things keep running smoothly and start when they should.
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