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#1
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I've got a 1650 that just don't like the cold. This morning it was 22 degrees F and though it would try, it didn't start. It likely would have if I kept trying but I thought I'd wait till it warmed up more. When it hit 36 degrees it did finally start. I have this tractor set up with a cab and thrower on it so I want to use it this winter. We had a cold snap for about a week and it wouldn't start until it warmed up. The old 72 with a snow blade was called into service and did well with about 8 inches of wet, heavy snow.
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Original, Serial #44578, K161S Serial #659144, 3pt. w/ Spring Assist, Deck, Fenders, Lights 72, Serial #231093, K161S Serial #C281773, 36" deck 149 & Original Yard art 1650, Serial #2050067U559932*, K341 Serial #7133367, 3 pt. hitch 1650, Serial #2050670U601762*, K341 Serial #7584702 SIM cab, 50" deck, tires loaded & weighted 123 FEL and weight box 10" & 12" Brinley Plow, Decks, Roller, Cart, Power angle blade, dozer blade, Snow Thrower, Airator, Tiller |
#2
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spark plug - condenser - coil - points -timing.
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#3
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When you say it won't start, I assume you mean it will turn over smartly, but not fire. I've never had trouble starting my cub in cold weather. With a good battery, good fuel and a clean air filter, there isn't much else needed. Of course, your timing, coil, points and condenser all need to be in decent shape. It's not like it's a diesel. I'd suspect things like water in the fuel line (as you've speculated), weak battery (or poor connections to it), bad coil/condenser, marginal gap on the points. First and foremost, make sure the battery is fully charged. If it's turning over quickly, then fuel is the next place to look.
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#4
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The grade of oil, cold oil and hydro fluid have alot to do with it too. I generally have to jump mine when it's cold.
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#5
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Poor battery, poor grounds, poor grade of fuel, wrong choice of oil grade, the fact it's a hydrostat, and a handful of other things could be the culprit.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#6
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I have newer plug, condenser, coil, and points in it. All about 6 months old. I suppose something could have gone bad in that time. I set the timing myself static method and checked with light. That was spot on. When it's not cold it fires up great.
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The air filter is kinda sad but it wasn't even on that week when I was messing with it. I did blow some carbon with a backfire but I figured that came from the muffler. (head decarboned 6 mo. ago also) I had concerns about the head gasket 6 mo. ago but when put back together it fired up right away so I thought it was fine. I suppose I just need to go through it all again. This is my second 1650. One's been out of service a little while but it had trouble last winter also. I appreciate the input guys.
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Original, Serial #44578, K161S Serial #659144, 3pt. w/ Spring Assist, Deck, Fenders, Lights 72, Serial #231093, K161S Serial #C281773, 36" deck 149 & Original Yard art 1650, Serial #2050067U559932*, K341 Serial #7133367, 3 pt. hitch 1650, Serial #2050670U601762*, K341 Serial #7584702 SIM cab, 50" deck, tires loaded & weighted 123 FEL and weight box 10" & 12" Brinley Plow, Decks, Roller, Cart, Power angle blade, dozer blade, Snow Thrower, Airator, Tiller |
#7
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valve gaps too
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CC 123 402c Sickle Bar, 48" Mower Deck QA42A Snow Thrower, 42'' Push Blade IH Back Blade and Rake Brinly Seeder/Aerator Brinly Lawn Rake Brinly 10" Moldboard,Brinly Cultivator, Brinly Disc |
#8
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What type of gas are you using? I personally don't use any gas that has ethanol in it unless I have to. I add SEA FOAM to all of my gas engines. Sea Foam and other gas additives will remove water/moisture from the gas and also clean the carb, intake, and combustion chamber as well. I highly recommend using SEA FOAM!!!! just my two cents
![]() Does your 1650 have the manual hydro dump valves? If it does it will have the release lever flopper handle on the side of the tunnel cover. If your lever is in working condition you can hold it up and release the valves while your cranking/starting the engine. This will put a lot less strain on the starter and it will make the engine turn over faster. It works but it is hard to hold the lever and turn the key and run the choke and throttle all at the same time to start the engine, almost need a third hand but it does work. |
#9
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#10
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Have you considered a magnetic heater for the rearend to keep the fluid warm? I'm from the south but have read about a lot of guys in the colder states doing this for easier starts. Heck, I don't even change grades of oil for the winter here...don't need to. I do run high test fuel with MMO and it seems to help things keep running smoothly and start when they should.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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