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  #1  
Old 12-26-2012, 10:03 PM
samiam44 samiam44 is offline
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Default check valves- rebuild or buy rebuildable

Hope I got the 2 check valves correct in naming. I noticed there is someone recommended on ebay on rebuilding them. Looks like a little handy work with a lathe and a TIG welder + some oring ...

Is there a good writeup on this process? I have a friend with all the equipment and many be able to get some help. What type of oring material is best?

Option 2 the guy on ebay also sells machined valves where you simply remove a snap-ring to replace the oring seal. Price is 2X rebuilding cost.


Michael
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  #2  
Old 12-27-2012, 07:26 AM
restore49 restore49 is offline
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http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html
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  #3  
Old 12-27-2012, 07:37 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
guy on ebay also sells machined valves where you simply remove a snap-ring to replace the oring seal.
ALL of the Relief Valves that I have ever seen have NO snap ring. Sundstrand, at the factory, put these valves together, then put a "rolling crimp" to hold everything in.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:13 AM
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Here's what he's talking about: http://www.ebay.com/itm/220893579663?redirect=mobile
It looks like he rolled the crimp out rather than machine it off all the way, and then put in a groove for the snap ring to hold the hat end piece on.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:31 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Last I checked, you could get a new Relief Valve from LJ Fluid for around $60.00 each.
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  #6  
Old 12-27-2012, 02:17 PM
teejk teejk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
Last I checked, you could get a new Relief Valve from LJ Fluid for around $60.00 each.
I'm in tear-down mode on a 1250 to replace the cork gasket. The unit was a mess (38 years un-touched will do that I guess) and hard to tell whether the relief valves should be replaced also. The relief valves look ok, the "buttons" operate and the internal O-rings look fine but reverse was getting "iffy" (perhaps due to leaking gaskets???).

I'm debating changing the valves now vs. waiting to see whether they are leaking from the top now that the hydro unit is is clean and new gaskets are in place.
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  #7  
Old 12-27-2012, 04:37 PM
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Buy 2 new AUTOMATIC Valves from LJ fluid power and you will be good for another 30 years.
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  #8  
Old 12-27-2012, 09:55 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Buy 2 new AUTOMATIC Valves from LJ fluid power and you will be good for another 30 years.
That's what I did with my 782. I don't regret it one bit.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:22 PM
samiam44 samiam44 is offline
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Anyone had experience here in rebuilding there own? How hard is it..? How time consuming is it as that might be my limiting thing..

I've got access to a decent lathe and I have a talented welder friend whom can weld them back if needed.

If anyone has done the machine work for a snap-ring do tell the details.


Michael
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  #10  
Old 12-29-2012, 07:02 PM
teejk teejk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teejk View Post
I'm in tear-down mode on a 1250 to replace the cork gasket. The unit was a mess (38 years un-touched will do that I guess) and hard to tell whether the relief valves should be replaced also. The relief valves look ok, the "buttons" operate and the internal O-rings look fine but reverse was getting "iffy" (perhaps due to leaking gaskets???).

I'm debating changing the valves now vs. waiting to see whether they are leaking from the top now that the hydro unit is is clean and new gaskets are in place.
what are the advantages of the "automatic" valves (not that I care since the tractor will likely outlive me, perhaps by decades since my wife doesn't much appreciate "my baby" and I suspect our coroner will be on the property any day now)?

are the automatic valves sized the same as the manual valves on a 1250 or do I need to explain the application to LJ Fluid?
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