hydraulic oil change 1250 questions

[martyrant]

So I am at the point where I need to change the hydraulic oil in the 1250 I got a while back and currently have the filters (got a couple, figure I might be changing it again soon if it's really bad) and the hydraulic oil. I looked at the manuals for the Quietlines and the 1000/1200, and I noticed that on the quietlines there is no drain cap (where on the 1000/1200 there is) for the hydraulic oil. Do I drain the oil out of the filter when I take it off on the 1250? Or do I jack up the front end like I've read around here and possibly pour it out the filler cap?

Sorry if this is explained somewhere in the manual, but I couldn't find anything and figure this is probably a simple question for someone who has done it.

Also, on a side note, does anyone know if implements (hydraulic plow) from a 129 would fit the 1250? I think they are both WF, but just figured I'd ask.

Thanks again,

Briton

[_DX3_]

You remove the rear trans cover to drain the fluid. The hydros hold 2 gallons of fluid. You can use some break cleaner and lint free rags to clean out the housing once it is drained. You should be good to go for a few more years with the filter and fluid changed.

Implements for the WF's will fit your QL.

[martyrant]

Originally Posted by _DX3_

You remove the rear trans cover to drain the fluid. The hydros hold 2 gallons of fluid. You can use some break cleaner and lint free rags to clean out the housing once it is drained. You should be good to go for a few more years with the filter and fluid changed.

Implements for the WF's will fit your QL.

Thank you for answering both my questions so quickly DX3!

[TheSaturnV]

So you'll want to have a replacement gasket on hand for the rear cover. When you remove the rear cover, be prepared for just shy of 2 gallons as mentioned above. Large pans don't typically fit too well between the rear tires, so 2 smaller pans are sometimes the way to go.

Loosen all the cover bolts, but don't remove the top 2 or 3 until the very last. Loosen them up about halfway, then crack open the cover from the bottom. This will give you some control over the fluid that will come splashing out.

As an aside, if you suspect your axle seals are leaking at all, now is the time to replace them while you have the rear cover off.

[martyrant]

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

So you'll want to have a replacement gasket on hand for the rear cover. When you remove the rear cover, be prepared for just shy of 2 gallons as mentioned above. Large pans don't typically fit too well between the rear tires, so 2 smaller pans are sometimes the way to go.

Loosen all the cover bolts, but don't remove the top 2 or 3 until the very last. Loosen them up about halfway, then crack open the cover from the bottom. This will give you some control over the fluid that will come splashing out.

As an aside, if you suspect your axle seals are leaking at all, now is the time to replace them while you have the rear cover off.

I am not a mechanic (work as an network engineer, so pretty far from the mechanic trade other than I can follow diagrams and instructions) so I wouldn't know what to look for / know how to tell if my axle seals are leaking--is this something I can check visibly when I do the oil change?

Also, whereabouts can I get a replacement gasket for the rear cover (and the rear axle seals, if I need them). Is this something I can get a generic part for, or should I go to my cub dealer for them?

Thanks again for extrapolating further on the process!

[badboy1950]

the best place to buy your parts are with the vendors at the top of each page as i have had good luck with them.
Dan

[drglinski]

Got a question in regards to the topic of this post--

There is still fluid in the pump and the lines when doing it this way, correct? Does the new fluid contaminate the old if it's still left in the pump? I think that I read somewhere that removal of ALL fluid, even in the pump, and trying to put it all back in is a pita to get the pump charged to work correctly.

Guess I'm not sure about the pump and the fluid that is (?) still left in it.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by drglinski

Got a question in regards to the topic of this post--

There is still fluid in the pump and the lines when doing it this way, correct? Does the new fluid contaminate the old if it's still left in the pump? I think that I read somewhere that removal of ALL fluid, even in the pump, and trying to put it all back in is a pita to get the pump charged to work correctly.

Guess I'm not sure about the pump and the fluid that is (?) still left in it.

Not enough to even think about and what is still in the pump has been filtered so don't worry about it.

[teejk]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Not enough to even think about and what is still in the pump has been filtered so don't worry about it.

If I might summarize the conventional wisdom of the pros here:

1) it's hydro fluid (not motor oil) so apparently not a big problem with a little old stuff mixing with new stuff (unlike motor oil)
2) dump the entire rear-end and filter, have a beverage of your choice while you wait
for it to drain
3) clean out the rear end of any "goo" you see AND clean all gasket mating surfaces (rear-end and filter...I use plain old rubbing alcohol)
4) replace the rear-end cover with a new gasket (question for the pros here...dealer told me the silicone "form a gasket" was fine for the rear-plate).
5) replace the filter (with a light film of hydro on the gasket). Just a hint...popping that valley cover pan between the seat and steering wheel makes things easier for old guys like me)
6) get your wallet out and go find a Cub Dealer to buy 8 qts (question for the pros here...we live in JD Green land here...I assume Cub Cadet and IH used the same hydro and also assume JD uses the same...right or not???) Roland says you can buy bulk if you take clean containers.
7) get a funnel with an attached tube, open up the drain plug on the rear cover (I think it's a 3/8" square that works with a standard SAE socket extension). Start filling until you get a hair shy of over-fill (finger test).
8) clean and replace the plug, fire it up and run it through the motions a little bit. Pull the plug out again and top up if you lost any fluid in the process. Replace the plug.
9) Pros here say to simply change the filter periodically from there...you need about a qt of fluid when you do that.

ok pros!!! how'd I do for amatuer explaining the process???

[martyrant]

Originally Posted by teejk

If I might summarize the conventional wisdom of the pros here:

1) it's hydro fluid (not motor oil) so apparently not a big problem with a little old stuff mixing with new stuff (unlike motor oil)
2) dump the entire rear-end and filter, have a beverage of your choice while you wait
for it to drain
3) clean out the rear end of any "goo" you see AND clean all gasket mating surfaces (rear-end and filter...I use plain old rubbing alcohol)
4) replace the rear-end cover with a new gasket (question for the pros here...dealer told me the silicone "form a gasket" was fine for the rear-plate).
5) replace the filter (with a light film of hydro on the gasket). Just a hint...popping that valley cover pan between the seat and steering wheel makes things easier for old guys like me)
6) get your wallet out and go find a Cub Dealer to buy 8 qts (question for the pros here...we live in JD Green land here...I assume Cub Cadet and IH used the same hydro and also assume JD uses the same...right or not???) Roland says you can buy bulk if you take clean containers.
7) get a funnel with an attached tube, open up the drain plug on the rear cover (I think it's a 3/8" square that works with a standard SAE socket extension). Start filling until you get a hair shy of over-fill (finger test).
8) clean and replace the plug, fire it up and run it through the motions a little bit. Pull the plug out again and top up if you lost any fluid in the process. Replace the plug.
9) Pros here say to simply change the filter periodically from there...you need about a qt of fluid when you do that.

ok pros!!! how'd I do for amatuer explaining the process???

Good write up from my newbie point of view. Under #4, when you refer to "form a gasket" are you actually saying you replace the rear gasket with silicone? Are these gaskets something my cub dealer would have handy or something most would have to order? If so I want to make sure I have all the parts before I start...generally don't like making runs to the hardware store/dealership half covered in oil.