Original - replaced clutch shaft front bearing

[gcbailey]

I noticed there was a lot of vibrating in the drive belt so I looked around and saw that the sealed high speed bearing in the front had about a 1/16 gap and lots of up and down movement. Well I found a replacement clutch off ebay, only $10.00 Everything looked good on it, but I just replaced the bearing, left everything else alone.

Since I've replaced the clutch bearing couple of things. At first I had hardly no power (couldn't pull out in 2nd or 3rd on level ground), I had way too much slack in the drive belt from the clutch to the engine. How much should there be? Do you tighten it correctly by moving the clutch support assembly up and down? I think that's part of my other problem. Now it seems like I have no brake (wheels keep trying to turn when I put on the brake), do I have the belt too tight? I'm sure there should probably be a little slack.

The clutch rod also made one complete turn when I was pulling the clutch out, is there a good clutch FAQ on adjusting besides the manual? I just don't quite get all those adjustments. These are all pretty new to me. This original is my first and my first learning experience.

[Yosemite Sam]

I'm not at all sure what the book says about tightning the belt, I like to leave mine just loose enough that the belt will squeel a little when taking off in third gear.

When you say "No brake"... did you put the old clutch back in or did you put the one from ebay in? When I have no brake on an Original it ALWAYS means that the pressure plates have stuck to the clutch, so I pop them loose by pushing down on the pedal and prying them apart with the tip of a large screwbar (this process sounds WAY worse than it really is). After that it's good until the next time I ride it hard and put it away wet...

When you say "The clutch rod also made one complete turn when I was pulling the clutch out" I'm guessing that you mean the adjustment rod, but I really don't see one turn being any real trouble.

The questions I have are, can you start it in neutral then put it in gear while it's running?
Does the drive shaft stop turning when you step on the pedal? And, are you sure you put it back together the same way it came apart (sorry about the last one but we all do something dumb once in awhile)? I really don't see much trouble there either, you didn't hardly take it apart enough to put anything back together wrong...

My best guess is that the pressure plates are stuck to the clutch and need to be pryed loose.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[gcbailey]

I did put the old clutch back in, I just removed the bearing from the one I got off of ebay. I guess I need to clarify the "no brake" a little more. When I apply the brake hard enough it slows the tractor down, but it will not come to a complete stop, like there is too much force/power to override the brake.

You are right about the adjustment rod, when I was removing the clutch to replace the bearing it turned once, I don't know if that was anything major or not.

Yes, I can start in neutral and put it in gear. 1st gear and reverse are smooth, going into 2nd or 3rd from neutral or from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd there is some grinding.

I honestly haven't paid attention to see if the shaft stops turning when I press the pedal. I'm assuming since it wants to keep going even with the brake on that it isn't, but you know what you get when you assume.

Yes, I did double check about putting it back together, orientation of the bearing, the front bearing retainer is all I had off. On the collar assembly the grease plug is pointing away from the clutch release lever. Is the collar assembly supposed to move back and forth on it's own? Is it possible to have too much grease if it is supposed to move back and forth, or is it supposed to just stay in one position?

Thanks for the help.

[Cub61]

Good morning gcbailey!!!! How's it going good buddy!!!

gcbailey, after reading both of your posts, I noticed you never mentioned about installing back on the Bearing Lock Collar after you did the bearing upgrade. Without that Bearing Locking Collar, your tractor will not move. Trust me, the OL' Girl threw the Bearing Locking Collar at work one time and she just came to a complete stop. I could shift threw all the gears without any problems but she wouldn't move. So make sure to check into that.

Secondly, as for the Clutch Rod moving a turn. I agree with Yosemite Sam. One turn shouldn't make much of a difference. But go ahead and readjust it any way. Just remember this, the more you screw in the Clutch Rod, the more it will pull the Clutch Pressure Plates away from the Clutch disc when you press on the Clutch/Brake Pedal. And if you screw the Clutch Rod out, it pulls the clutch pressure plates less farther away from the Clutch Disc when you press on the Clutch/Brake Pedal. In result, you'll have some light rubbing going on between the between the Pressure Plates and the Clutch Disc. Possibly making it a little harder to shift gears.

Thirdly, the belt should be nice and tight, without any squealing during take off. The only light squealing you should hear is from the Clutch during take off. If your Clutch Belt is squealing during take off, that means it's too loose and you'll have problems if you plan on using this tractor for plowing or hauling. To tighten the belt, find you a long steel rod and place that steel rod on top of the drive shaft preferably some where behind the Collar assembly. And pull up applying down force pressure on the drive shaft until your Clutch Belt is nice and tight and tighten the 3 bolts to the Clutch Assembly Plate. Sometimes it takes two people to do this. Since the 3 bolts that hold the Clutch Assembly Plate start to turn while you're trying tighten the Hex Nuts on them.

And last but not least, the Clutch Collar. The position that you stated you clutch collar is in is correct. And it stays there too. It does not rotate in any way. The clutch collar becomes active when you press the Clutch/Brake Pedal. And it's only movement is back and forth. When you apply the Clutch/Brake Pedal, the Collar moves back and releasing the pressure off the Clutch Disc coming from the Pressure Plates. When you let go of the Brake/Clutch pedal, the Collar moves forward bringing the two Pressure Plates together applying pressure back onto the Clutch Disc in result making the tractor move. And don't worry about having too much grease inside the collar. Having more than enough grease inside the Collar is a very good thing. Trust me on that one. Hope this helps in one way or another???? If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'll be more than happy to help you out. Have a great day good buddy!!!!


MATT

[gcbailey]

Matt - thanks for the reply. I'll have to recheck through all of these. Another question about the collar. I was under the tractor looking (with it off) and I can push/slide the collar back against the clutch release and when I push in on the clutch it moves it forward and it just stays. Does that move back automatically when you have it in gear?

[gcbailey]

OK I've had a chance to play around some. It's hard to do too much on a rainy day in the garage.... Is it possible I have the belt too tight? Here's what's happening... I adjusted the distance between the collar and yoke, and I think it's about .020. I started the tractor up got looking underneath and watched the collar slide back and forth when I applied the brake/clutch. I guess that answered my earlier question. The engine had to be running. So now, I put it in 1st with the engine low throttle. I put on the brake, the left wheel locks tight, but the right just keeps on chugging, slam into neutral real quick so I don't hit my truck. Rinse and repeat... Is it possible when I reconnected the yoke I did something to the brake? Or do I have the belt too tight that the drive shaft is overpowering the brake? I really need my brakes because here in West Virginia there isn't such a thing as flat ground, so brakes come in handy

[Cub61]

gcbailey, are these the two parts that you are asking about??? If so, both of these parts should move back and forth together as you press and depress the Clutch/Brake Pedal, even if the tractor is not on or in gear.

CLUTCH RELEASE COLLAR


CLUTCH SHAFT BUSHING

[gcbailey]

They move back and foward together when I have the engine turned on and the drive shaft is spinning. If I don't have the tractor engine on they just move back with the pedal once, you have to take your hand and move them back forward. Like a one way street.

[Yosemite Sam]

Oh Crap!

Are you asking about the throw out bearing??? I thought you were talking about the bearing way up on the front end of the shaft.

Listen to Matt he just went through throw out bearing problems...

As far as the brake thing goes, there is only one brake on an Original it's on the left axle, there is none on the right at all.

From what you describe it sounds like the pressure plates are either stuck to the clutch OR your brake is coming on before your clutch is disengaged. Unhook the brake rod and start it up (someplace where you can't crash anything) try driving it with the rod unhooked and see if it starts and stops like it should (DO THIS ON THE FLAT GROUND IN FIRST GEAR SO NO ONE OR NOTHING GETS HURT). If you think it's going to get away from you, don't panic, just reach down and turn the key off.

[gcbailey]

Maybe this will help... I made a quick video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP65Z0am5Lc