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#1
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The 123 I bought last August has been a real workhorse. Used several hours every week (actually, a few hours every day this time of year), it has run flawlessly for me. Only major work on it in my year of ownership has been splitting the tractor to rebuild the speed control and replace the seal between the hydro and rear.
That was until this week, when it started running real rough. First noticed it backfiring when I'd throttle down to idle. Next day, had trouble starting it, and keeping it running without the choke on a bit when cold. Normally, I can pull the choke out to fire it, and then push the choke all the way in as soon as she's running, but not this week. I have to keep it choked a bit for a few minutes to keep it from stalling now. Also noticed the governer working a lot more than normal (not holding consistent RPM), and a lack of power pulling heavy loads up a hill. Primary use at the moment is hauling dirt and mulch, and then idling while I fill or unload the tractor. I recently replaced the fuel bowl filter, float valve, and float bowl gaskets, which I don't believe to be related, but I'm listing for the sake of completeness. Also, I have a slight exhaust leak at the clamp between the muffler and elbow, which has always been the case, but again listing for completeness. All else seems healthy. It's entirely possible this is just some bad gas, but I'm using the same fuel in my Deere 757, which is running just fine. Any ideas? I do see the little cam on top of the throttle shaft on top of the carb is very loose and wobbly, but again, it's always been so, and never been a problem before. Primary problem is I need to use this tractor nearly every day this time of year, and can't be without it too long. Thanks! |
#2
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sounds like your float maybe sinking, check it for a hole, or the condensor is bad
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Chris Westfall - Cub Cadet Classics |
#3
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If the float was sinking, there'd be gas running out of the air filter.
I think you are in need of a carb cleaning and rebuild. |
#4
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The float valve had gotten a little piece of dirt in it last month, and I did have that fuel running out of the carb experience. I cleaned and reinstalled the valve, and that got me back up and running for a week while I waited for a rebuild kit, which consisted of new float bowl gaskets and a float valve. As of last reinstall, float looked good, and I did test it for float-i-ness. Checked the float leveling (seems to be adjusted by bending a little tab on top which presses up on float valve), and level seemed to be good, so I did not modify.
One thing I did notice is the float valve replacement kit came with two bowl gaskets, one being a thin o-ring, and the other being a large flat gasket with a half-moon hole. My carb did not have one of these flat half-moon gaskets prior to the rebuild, and I did not see it listed in my vintage literature, so I did not use the new one I received. I assumed this gasket is for some other version of the carburetor, but maybe not? I do suspect the problem could be a bad carb to block gasket, or the loose throttle cam piece on top of the carb. It's also possible some of the dirt that got stuck in my float valve is also clogging one of the holes in my high speed needle. Either way, a carb rebuild is probably in order. What's included in the kit, and where's the best place to order one? The only rebuild kit I've seen has the float valve, and float gaskets, but nothing with regard to the throttle shaft assembly. Thanks! |
#5
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The baffle gasket is supposed to be in all of the carbs. What you bought and installed was a rebuild kit, but unless you thoroughly cleaned the carb, it didn't do you any good.
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#6
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Well, it did me good in the sense that I was trying to solve a leaky float valve, and it did that. I double checked my 1965 service manual, and it does show an explode view of that carb. It shows the baffle gasket is NOT used in this carburetor, as of that print date. Was this gasket some later addition, and if so, what problem was it aimed at fixing?
What about that loose throttle cam? Is there any prescribed fix for that? Seems the bent sheetmetal piece atop the throttle shaft on the carb has a mile of play in it, despite the screw attaching it to the throttle shaft being tight. |
#7
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There are bushings you can buy from sponsers , or this guy on youtube
has a cheap fix that worked for me......... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYkC0ayQY8E
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149..... qa-42 snow thrower..#1 tiller w/extentions, 109 w/deck, 129 w/blade 1450 w/deck Case 444 gt.....H270 toro wheelhorse....Massey 135 diesel.....52 GMC |
#8
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Are you saying the cam is loose on the shaft, or the shaft is loose in the carb body? The latter is easily fixable with bushings.....
Congrats on the progress! John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#9
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i sell the throttle shaft bushings that work fine,
www.cubclassics.com
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Chris Westfall - Cub Cadet Classics |
#10
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In any case, got everything cleaned, reassembled, and readjusted, and she's running beautifully. Not sure why the float valve was leaking again, but I suspect it may have been some debris getting in from the rotting rubber bushings in the compression fittings on either end of the steel fuel line. I had already ordered new, so they got replaced this morning. Quote:
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