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  #1  
Old 05-17-2014, 01:54 PM
Rev.Matthew Rev.Matthew is offline
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Default 149 only runs with key in start position

Hello,

So my 149 restoration project continues...I've replaced the alternator, the starter, the solenoid, the wiring harness, muffler, head gasket, etc. Here's the issue. I finally get the engine to turn over and start yesterday by shorting out the PTO and clutch pedal safety switches. But the engine will only start and stay running while I'm turning the key to the start position. As soon as I release the key the engine stops. I've checked the wiring diagram for the 149 several times and everything seems to be wired and connected properly. What is going on/what have I done wrong? If I switched wires to the large posts on the solenoid, could that be the problem? ANY help would b greatly appreciated, I'm going broke buying new parts and getting really frustrated. Just want to cut the grass and get this beast up and running. Thanks for any help. Matthew+
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  #2  
Old 05-17-2014, 02:08 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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It sounds like the Ignition Switch is bad. See attached Switch Matrix for the check out procedure.
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File Type: jpg 149 Matrix.jpg (5.2 KB, 188 views)
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B]

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  #3  
Old 05-18-2014, 08:45 AM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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turn the key to run And check to see if the coil + has power
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  #4  
Old 05-18-2014, 12:46 PM
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OffTime OffTime is offline
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I know you've checked this already, but it would be possible to have the B and S terminals swapped on the ignition switch and have the same results. If that isn't a problem, sounds like a bad switch.
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1972 129 w/hydraulic lift and head light option soon to be repainted
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  #5  
Old 05-18-2014, 01:33 PM
Rev.Matthew Rev.Matthew is offline
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Thanks all...will try the suggestions this afternoon and let you know what I find. Replacing the coil and/or ignition? Well, that about figures...I've replaced almost everything else electronic on it already
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  #6  
Old 05-20-2014, 07:35 AM
Rev.Matthew Rev.Matthew is offline
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Thanks everyone...I worked on the 149 all day yesterday and I think I need to buy a new switch. Roland, thanks for the matrix. I looked at all of the wiring and with the new harness that I bought a couple of weeks ago there was only one configuration for the wiring where the wires would actually plug into the three outlets on the back of the switch. So, we'll see when the new switch arrives if that solves the problem. Thanks again for all of the great info MUCH appreciated.
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2014, 10:48 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I think you need to invest in a $3 test light so you can test wires without the need to order expensive parts and see if they work. You've already bought a lot of parts that may not have been bad.
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  #8  
Old 05-21-2014, 11:37 PM
jrob33 jrob33 is offline
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And/or a $5 multi-meter!!
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  #9  
Old 07-04-2014, 04:04 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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Instead of starting a new thread, I'll add my problem to this thread.


On my 125 with hydraulic lift ( other is a 125 with man lift ), I just replaced the homemade wiring harness with one I purchased from mlamar. All wires were marked and installed as tagged. I did bypass the safety switch ( jumper ) since it's broken and was bypassed with the other harness

The ignition wires were a plug and I pushed the plug into place. The switch has 5 prongs on it.

It starts but shuts off as soon as the key is released. If you turn the key back to start, it runs again.

Any ideas on what to check?

Thanks
Jeff
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2014, 04:24 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Jeff I'd check the switch. One of the tangs may have been damaged during install. Sounds like it is only putting power out on the IGN circuit in the start position. Switch may have just decided to fail also. Post back if you need more info on how to test.
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