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#1
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I've got a 241 on the bench, and I want to check it out and R&R as required. I got one set screw out of each of the holes that I've circled in red rectangles in the photo below. They took a lot of PB and time, but they came out.
There's two other holes , one on each "step" of the collar , one of which is show in the red oval. This hole doesn't SEEM to contain a set screw, it almost looks like it's started to have been drilled....there's no hex to be seen. My question is that (if you use the terminology in the 2nd photo) is are there two set screws in each set screw hole in the INNER and OUTER collars or two sets of holes in each INNER and OUTER collars, each with one set screw ? THANKS and sorry if this is cryptic..I've tried several times to word it better. John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#2
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In your left picture, the top hole is in the basket pulley hub which is not connected to the bearing at all; the bottom left hole is the setscrew for the locking collar, and the right hole is just a divot that gives your punch something to grab so you can rotate the collar to lock it.
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#3
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Thanks Matt... so, the collar is threaded on (right hand, left hand?) and independent of the basket pulley and the bearing?
Is the bearing just pressed on there, or is it attached to the collar? Thanks for your info. John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#4
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The bearing is held in place with the collar. Use a punch and knock it clockwise to loosen it from the bearing if you are facing the bearing. Now, there is a good chance the bearing is seized to the crank, I had to use a bearing puller to get it off. This would be a good time to replace the bearing and locking collar.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#5
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OK thanks...that's a big help. So, the bearing is not attached to the collar, but is keyed and just a press fit. I didn't want to pull on it much since I wasn't sure if the collar and sets screws were involved in holding the bearing on.
So... get the bearing off with a puller (and PBblaster and words) The unthread the collar, then remove the basket pulley. Sounds close? Thanks VERY much John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#6
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The bearing is not attached to the collar, is not keyed, is not a press fit, and is not threaded on. The OD of the inner race of the bearing that interfaces with the collar is eccentric, so rotating the collar with respect to the inner race of the bearing offsets the axis of the collar, making it 'lock' the bearing onto the shaft, hence the name, 'eccentric locking collar'. Note the instructions for installation and removal in the beginning of the service manual.
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#7
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I had luck with a rubber hammer removing the bearing. The collar should'ent be a problem. Make sure to use anti seize on the set screws for reassembly.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#8
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Let me go read the section you note to see if it makes more sense, and to determine how many degrees of rotation it takes to unlock. Thanks! John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#9
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The amount of rotation it takes to unlock it will depend on how tight it was in the first place. When the collar feels loose and will move freely for slight rotations in either direction, it's unlocked.
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#10
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Note one side of the bearing bore is thin on one side and thicker on the other. Thats how it works.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
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