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#1
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Well guys I just got my 124 home and pulled my aerator around the yard some with it and used both hi and low range on the creeper. I got ready to park it for the night and to back it under the shelter and had the bright idea to put it in low to give me more control backing the aerator but when I let out on the clutch it shut the tractor down. I tried again with the same result so I just put it back in hi and backed it up. When you shift it into lo there is no click for like shifting into hi it just flops back. Also there seems to be oil leaking from on top of the creeper somewhere but it was too dark to see. Any one got any ideas on what I am up against?
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#2
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take the creeper off and see if your roll pin is still there
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Donovan: 62' Original-fenders 63' 100R-K-321a,lights,creeper,electric lift 149-original paint, tiller, three point, duals, ags 1811Custom -M18-18hp kohler magnum, power steering and hydraulic lift with Three point and sleeve hitch. ---------------------------------------------------- Attachments:three-QA 42inch,42inch blade,one-38inch cast end, QA 44inch deck Brinly 12inch plow, 2x cultivators and x2disc Brinly Tool bar cub10: ![]() |
#3
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Can I remove the creeper from underneath or does it require taking the transaxle out of the frame?
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#4
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I recommend splitting the tractor. I had a heck of a time trying to install my creeper in my 126. It would have went so much faster if I just pulled the tranny out of the tractor.
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Wendy Oaks IH Cub Cadets, Springville, IA.
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#5
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Now Im having more issues, the starter generator is overheating getting so hot the paint is peeling off the back of it and making a interment moaning type noise? Any ideas on what this could be...
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#6
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Ok I got the S/G apart and the bushing in the end is completely gone, prob .020+ oversize. I have a kit ordered that comes with the bushing, bearing and brushes but I have a few more questions.
1. I am curious about the wick, where exactly is it located and where can I come up with a replacement, I am pretty sure lack of lubrication is what caused this failure and need to make sure it doesn't happen again. 2. I have read that I should turn the armature before reassembling, how much should I remove? 3. Anything else I need to know to keep from screwing this S/G up? |
#7
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My local S/G shop does the rebuild so cheap, I would never open one up. |
#8
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Thanks for the reply S/G shops are pretty non existent around my area and plus I figure if I am going to have a toy of this vintage I should at least know how to repair it when it fails.
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#9
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I wouldn't turn the commutator unless it is really grooved,
and really no need to fool with undercutting the segments. Just clean it up slightly, and replace the brushes if they are worn. measure the armature shaft to see if it is undersize. some rebuilders cut the shaft undersize and install a undersize bushing to compensate but it is a "custom" thing. |
#10
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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