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#1
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looks like person before me stripped out set screws on pto on my 100 any ideas to get them out?????
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#2
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I have been lucky getting a high quality metric wrench that is slightly larger, and driving it in the stripped hole.
Patience and work, give it a try!! |
#3
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First thing I would do is just get the pto off wth out pulling out the screw. Simply stick a bar junky screw driver in behind the clutch fingers and pry them out. Then use a puller to pull the pto and berring and all off. Then you can work the set screw.
Go to Ace and get you a couple of I think its #15 torx like a screw driver, and put it in the hole. Then see if you can feel the edges of the allen head. If you can, beat the torx in place. Then pull crew it out. If you feel like you can drill straight, put the pto in a vise and drill it out. Then run your 14/20 tap the clean the threads. I do them both ways. Dont worry about trashing the PTO berring, you can buy them at Advanced auto for 13 bucks, complete. |
#4
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Remember that there are two set screws in each hole or at least there should be. I have wondered if a right sized broken bolt remover would work on a messed up set screw after soaking in pb a couple of days.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. |
#5
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I have found that the best way is to put the PTO in a vise and drill it out on the drill press
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67 cub cadet 123 with Loader http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/i...20Flag%201.gif |
#6
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I had the top set screw strip when I pulled my K-301 in my 125. I even had a brand new high quality allen wrench
![]() NOTE !! Set screws are made of high strength material, keep your RPM's down low enough you can see the flutes when you're drilling. If it's a blur, it's too fast and you'll burn up the cutting edge. Here's what I did (with the PTO still attached ), first I took a letter "F" drill ( .2570) and went down the clearance portion of the PTO to the set screw. I drilled in far enough to make a perfectly centered starting point. Take notice of the angle of the drill since it's "body bound". Then I changed to a 3/16" (.1875) drill. I kept the RPM down low, the drill straight and used plenty of oil. If you don't have cutting oil, motor oil is better than nothing. Once I drill thru both set screws, it will probably come off. I verified I was still in the center. If not, try to get the set screws to turn out. If you go to a proper sized drill now, you may wipe out a portion of the threads on one side. I changed to a #7 drill ( .2010 ) or a 13/64 (.2031 ) and drill thru the set screws. I cleaned the threads with a 1/4-20 NC tap and purchased new set screws. That's how I did it. ![]() Jeff |
#7
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Vince,
Can you list the part number for the PTO Bearing that you are able to find it under at Advanced Auto for $13. Thanks |
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