Cub 1650 Oil Leak

mattop · #1 07-07-2015, 09:51 AM

I recently bought a 1978 Cub Cadet 1650 on Craigslist for $200. It ran pretty well, but had some oil leaks and a few other problems. I had the auto relief valves rebuilt, which solved most or all of my hydro leaks (I may still have a leak, I need to investigate further).

The more serious leak however, is from the Kohler K341 engine. It appears to be dripping off the plastic flywheel shroud at the rear of the engine closest to the dash tower. I guess this is really the front of the engine. The previous owner replace the engine mounts, so I'm wondering if the seal wore out from bad engine mounts allowing the engine to shake around. My question is, how do I make sure this is the problem, and what am I getting into with replacing this seal? I've replaced seals before, which usually isn't too difficult, but having to take the whole engine out makes me a little nervous. Also, removing the drive shaft from these tractors kind of perplexes me.

What can you guys tell me? Has anyone made this repair before?

olds45512 · #2 07-07-2015, 10:34 AM

Remove the engine then remove the tins and the flywheel, its not too bad of a project as long as you have a puller for the flywheel.

Sam Mac · #3 07-07-2015, 10:43 AM

Download the service manuals, they explain how to do the repairs.

Tractor service manual
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644

Engine service manual
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4646

j4c11 · #4 07-07-2015, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattop

What can you guys tell me? Has anyone made this repair before?

If you have a crane or hoist or something that will make the job easier. If not, you can pull the engine out by hand, I just pulled a Mag 20 out, the K341 should be lighter.I'm guessing about 110#.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattop

Also, removing the drive shaft from these tractors kind of perplexes me.

You just remove the two bolts connecting the drive shaft to the flex coupler. Should be able to slide the engine forward slightly and voila. I would replace the flex couplers too while you're in there, they've probably had it by now.

johncub7172 · #5 07-07-2015, 01:45 PM

Hi! Welcome to Only Cub Cadets!

Tear down of your IH Cub Cadet 1650 QL is simple, as long as you understand and pay attention to what you are doing.

I would take pictures, and label connections as well as conductor connections. However, a good clean up of the engine bay and engine seem like a great starting point. I would use Purple Power.

There are others here that can help when and if it comes to the front and or rear main seals. I suggest you weigh all options and decide on the best method to accomplish this task, if it is in deed these engine seals.

I have a nice insight thread about my IH Cub Cadet 1450 QL under the name of U.S.A Tractor Joe across the street in the Cub Cadet forum, at My Tractor Forum.com . Here you can see first hand, what the manuals don't give, and especially how many times I end up removing the Kohler K321AQS , which is basically the very same engine as your K341AQS .

Good luck. These IH Cub Cadets are worth the time and cost!!

Bob95065 · #6 07-07-2015, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johncub7172

Hi! Welcome to Only Cub Cadets!

Tear down of your IH Cub Cadet 1650 QL is simple, as long as you understand and pay attention to what you are doing.

I would take pictures, and label connections as well as conductor connections. However, a good clean up of the engine bay and engine seem like a great starting point. I would use Purple Power.

There are others here that can help when and if it comes to the front and or rear main seals. I suggest you weigh all options and decide on the best method to accomplish this task, if it is in deed these engine seals.

I have a nice insight thread about my IH Cub Cadet 1450 QL under the name of U.S.A Tractor Joe across the street in the Cub Cadet forum. Here you can see first hand, what the manuals don't give, and especially how many times I end up removing the Kohler K321AQS , which is basically the very same engine as your K341AQS .

Good luck. These IH Cub Cadets are worth the time and cost!!

Can you post a link? It will make it easier for the OP.

mattop · #7 07-08-2015, 12:55 PM

I really appreciate all your responses. I think this is something I'm going to attempt in the near future, the problem is I was exited to put this thing to work! I bought the Cub to haul my little 5x8 trailer around the yard that I use for yard clean up and such (we have a large yard with lots of trees and a dump area down in the woods. I've been using my 1973 John Deere 110 as my utility hauler, but I've about had it with the variator acting up on that thing! Being an IH guy anyway (I have an IH 574 diesel), I thought this was a great time to upgrade to an IH-built Cub Cadet because of its robust drive train. It is really built much better for how I use a garden tractor, and I'm enjoying the 16 hp Kohler over the 8 hp Kohler in the Deere, but the oil leak is hard to ignore.

Two questions I have at this point: Would you recommend unbolting the engine at the oil pan and leaving the mounting brackets attached to the frame in the tractor? Also, I've never removed a flywheel, and I don't have a flywheel remover. I'm open to suggestions or any tips and tricks those with more wisdom than I may have on how to approach this.

Thanks again.

Matt

j4c11 · #8 07-08-2015, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattop

Also, I've never removed a flywheel, and I don't have a flywheel remover. I'm open to suggestions or any tips and tricks those with more wisdom than I may have on how to approach this.

Get a flywheel remover, they are cheap and easy to use. Put two bolts into the flywheel through the puller and the center bolt against the crankshaft, then use a wrench or impact wrench on the center bolt to tighten it and pull the flywheel out. 2 minute job at most, no tips or tricks needed.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00

ol'George · #9 07-08-2015, 01:52 PM

Well I prefer to unbolt the engine from the iso rails.
The front bolts are a little tricky in the axle channel but do-able,
just use a short socket
As others have said, clean it up/degrease first.
I ran into an odd leak once on a aluminum pan.
Someone used a too long of a motor mount bolt and it cracked the bolt hole bottom into the oil pan.
It was not a big leak but it weeped so it would be nice to see where your leak is coming from if it is not apparent.
On the flywheel removal:
While not the best way to do it, but it works, is
loosen the nut flush with the shaft and pry with a pry bar or big screwdriver opposite the keyway on the edge of the flywheel like you are trying to pry it off and @ the same time, whack the crankshaft squarely on the end with a large brass hammer, it should jump right off
one good whack does it, not many small ones which is useless.

mattop · #10 07-08-2015, 03:22 PM

Thanks for the link to the flywheel puller. I will definitely get one of those. Ok, this is looking a bit easier.

As I said earlier, the previous owner replaced the engine mounts. Would it be worth it to do the cradle mod and put a bar across the front of the engine mounts? I do own a Miller Thunderbolt welder, but I need to get it hooked up and practice running some beads. Theoretically, I could just weld this onto the engine mount bars without even pulling them from the tractor, correct?

Matt