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  #1  
Old 11-24-2011, 09:34 AM
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jlampe94 jlampe94 is offline
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Location: IL
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Default 100 clutch

Hey guys im needing to rebuild the clutch (drive not pto) and would like to beef it up a little bit. I use it for plowing snow and moldboard and other tasks that require hard pulling. Wondering what any other guys are doin for a easy inexpensive way to do this. Any helps appreciated.
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Original,100,123,129,1200,1250,168 in progress (3) 42inch plows, QA-42A,#1 tiller, 10inch brinly plow, Case Ingersoll 224, 1948 Farmall H, 1950 McCormick W-6, 1952 McCormick W-4.
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  #2  
Old 11-24-2011, 01:36 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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I am thinking of using a Kevlar disc from Midwest:
http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsu...te-clutch-disc

And a blue pulling spring from Chris Westfal one of our sponsors up at the top of the page:
http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html

Going to put these on my 128. Everything else stock will be just fine. You might upgrade to a Stainless drive shaft tho. I already have one for the 128.
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DWayne

1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

10" moldboard plow

2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:01 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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I've done the same thing to my 100 as _DX3_ posted in his response. I didn't use a stainless steel drive shaft. The material I like to use is 4140 grade material. I replace the rear pin that holds the clutch spring in place with a split collar. The hole thru the driveshaft is a weak spot.

Another area I would strengthen is the clutch fork mount with the one that IHinIN sells
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=14116
plus I would beef the area that holds the clutch fork mount on the tractor. Next 70/100 I do will have this done to it.

Make sure your throw out bearing and clutch release lever are in good shape.

Last area to look at is the pilot bushing and pins in the clutch driver. If there is any doubt...replace them.
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:38 PM
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Mountain Heritage Mountain Heritage is offline
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Do you have any pictures to show these weak features? So this is a common problem with 100's that you should look for and understand that you need to upgrade them in the future?

Can you get the part that IHinIN makes elsewhere? Do our sponsors sell these too?
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Mike
Ontario, Canada
IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower.

Now everyone wants a Cub!

Beware of the Wife
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:51 PM
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jlampe94 jlampe94 is offline
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Thanks guys! I rebuilt it a couple years ago with stock parts but they way i use it it wore quick and was a lil hard on it so ill look into getting that spring and cluth disk. Much appreciated.
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Original,100,123,129,1200,1250,168 in progress (3) 42inch plows, QA-42A,#1 tiller, 10inch brinly plow, Case Ingersoll 224, 1948 Farmall H, 1950 McCormick W-6, 1952 McCormick W-4.
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:50 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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The most important thing to do when you rebuild the clutch is have the pressure plates trued by a lathe.....not a belt sander, drill press or flat plate.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:06 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
The most important thing to do when you rebuild the clutch is have the pressure plates trued by a lathe.....not a belt sander, drill press or flat plate.
Does anyone know the minimum thickness the plates can be?
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DWayne

1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

10" moldboard plow

2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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