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#1
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Ok guys I have a model 73 that my grandpa got new in early 70, build date of dec of 69. Its a bare model that I would like to option out and hop up.
The fenders I'm sure I can build a set out of some trailer fenders that will look good enough to fool most everybody. The seat pan is long gone, grandpa swapped it out for one with a back. I'm gonna put a more comfy one on it. The engine, still running, I want a bit more power. From my understanding a 12 horse will swap out without cutting. I think I read about being able to use 12 hp parts on a 14 hp motor to make it work. Still reading. The PTO, is there a way to swap it out to electric? Headlights, seen a few ways to add them and still reading. |
#2
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A 14 horse kohler will bolt right in if you swap the flywheel with on off a 12.
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#3
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Well unless I come across the parts free I'm stuck with the k161 for now. I'm gonna worry about everything else since the engine runs fine.
I really need one with a 3 point anyways. I have a few goodies and nothing small enough to put them on. They look funny behind my ford 841 or 861 |
#4
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Why would you want an electric PTO?
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#5
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#6
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
#7
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Not throwing off on anything, but I run a Haban 402-D sickle bar on my 73 and that little 7hp has more than enough power. Have you looked at any old pictures of attachments for the Originals? They have the k-161 too and there pretty much wasn't anything you could put on them. I would just give that 7hp a chance. You can find a lot of videos on youtube with 7hp cubs plowing and dozens of other ground engaging things and they aren't hurting for power.
You would be looking at doing a lot of modifications to add an electric PTO unless you found a newer engine with one native, then that would probably be from a quietline and you'd have to modify the mounts to get it to work right on the 73's frame. You can pick up a fresh rebuilt mechanical PTO for a lot cheaper than an electric one.
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Gary '49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods. 5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah... |
#8
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It's your tractor but I would keep that 73 original since it was your grandpa's and it is one of the rare models. Just my 2 cents.
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#9
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I have an IH Cub Cadet 70 that I consider doing some of the mods you are taslking about. THis 70 has been in my Wife's family since it was new in 1965.This Cub Cadet was used to pay off a 10 acre strawberry blueberry farm. I remember going to Uncle DIck house and seeing the 70 hilling the strawberry plants. I would joke with Uncle Dick saying the old Cub needs a bigger motor. Uncle Dick response was always the same....it gets the job done.
By time it arrived at my house it was in bad shape. ![]() The motor was just sitting in the frame. The hood had an extra set of holes in it because the clutch linkage came apart and the tractor wouldn't stop.....until it ran into a tree. The front axle was replaced 2 times before the 70 showed up at my place because of excessive wear. By time I was ready to restore Uncle Dick's 70 I had purchase fenders and a hydraulic lift system for it. The steering tower has major rust problem where it mounts to the frame on the one side. The major rust pits on the frame where the steering tower mounted to frame. I wanted to replace the steering tower because of the rust. ![]() ![]() Notice the 2 holes below the creaper slot....should be only one hole for creaper breather. After hearing some stories about Uncle Dick's 70 I desided to restore it like it was when it arrived on Uncle Dick's farm. It took more time to do that way. I'm glad I did. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The tires are not the orginal tires that came on the 70. I had a few good laughs when I disassemble the 70. Nails were used for cotter pins. Bolts were used for spriod pins. The second hole in the frame was made by Uncle Dick so he could drive out the pin in the driveshaft. Uncle Dick past away in 1988. Aunt Tinny (wife) saw the 70 earlier this year saw the 70 for the first time. She was amazed when she saw it. A few weeks later I recieved a few pictures in the mail of the 70. One was the day 70 arrived. Besides the background the 70 looks tha same. Here is an link to the rebuild on Uncle Dick: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick Your 73 is special because it was your Grandpa's. Keep it like your Grandpa had it as an honor to him. The little 7 horse power can fool you. You won't regret leaving it orginal. |
#10
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Yall be rude,lol. Hope I explain yalls questions and don't miss anything.
Could care less about being my grandpas. I have other items from him worth much more to me. This is nothing more than steel to work with. He would look at me like a fool if I got it running and didn't use it. Truthly the only reason why its in the family is cause my grandpa was gonna scrap it in the 80s when he got a bigger one. The deck was rusted out and my other grandpa bought it from him for $20 for my grandma to drive to the garden with a trailer. Its been parked under a wood shed since the late 80s when my grandmother got too old to garden. The reason for the electric pto is to clear up room in the front for a chevy powersteering pump run hyrdos. I want to put a small set of forks to move engine blocks and suck around my shop. Figured if the linkage was cleaned up under there I could mount it under the hood and use the factory lever spot. That leads to the engine. I understand the high torque of the 7hp engine and its a workhorse. Figured with a hydro pump spinning I might want a bit more raw hp off the engine. For pulling plows and such gearing is great and even with a 1hp engine everything set right you can make it tow a truck. Running something directly off the engine is another story. As for asking questions. Have you guys never heard of research? I would much rather have an idea about what I'm trying to do before jumping in and finding out after the fact I've spent money and wasted time on something that won't work. This is what I got and most everything but the engine I have on hand. That means short of bearings and seals I have everything for $0. The goal is to try to not mod it past being able to return it factory as much as I can. Sounds to me you guys would rather see me just cut this up to use the rearend under a full custom chassis. That the case ill turn the seating around and build it like a mini forklift. Ill have 1 forward and 3 reverse but in a forklift you go reverse more than forward. Just wanted to run the ideas by you cause I like the way it looks and really didn't want to butcher it. Thought with all the attachments and do hickeys these things came out with in the past there might have been something factory I could copy. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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